Sarasota
to Stuart…Trekking through More of Florida’s Microclimates: March 26 2023
A
few more days in Sarasota gave us extra time to track down a boat part
(3/2). Unfortunately, we struck out for
the back deck shower sprayer despite lots of walking in the sun and lots of
time spent by Rick and Joe helping us in the search. No worries, guys, we’ll have it sent ahead to
the next marina we go to. Our current
home anchored at Bird Key is not a mailing address for us; however, it is for
Brian Johnson (lead singer for AC/DC).
Our choice of Bird Key was due to the forecasted strong winds and the
great protection it provides. The dinghy
was hauled and we were ready (3/3). Our
sailboat neighbors were off to a family wedding for a couple of nights so we
exchanged contact info. They just
returned from five years to Guatemala and back.
Cool! Happily, the storm dwindled
from two full days of wind and rain to half a day of just strong winds (33kts
was the highest we saw). Weather during
the day is always better for the nerves than weather at night.
Well,
the winds have mellowed but the red tide has exploded (3/5). The normally serene water’s surface looks
like the chaos of snack trash in the bleachers after a sports game…dead fish
are everywhere.
However,
light winds also mean we can get out and about again. Off we went ashore for a visit to ACE
Hardware for an anchor washdown hose replacement. Enroute, we stumbled upon Five-0 Donuts on
Ringling Blvd. Their tag-line is that
their donuts are, “arrestingly good.” Tee,
hee, hee – get it?! Corny but they are
right – totally delicious! Light
conditions also enticed us to dinghy around the corner towards Longboat Key to
the Old Salty Dog on City Island. Yep,
we had hot dogs. The place has a relaxed
vibe and is not much more than a deck over the water…absolutely dog
friendly. These two giant shepherds were
happy to be in the shade. It was a lazy
Sunday afternoon for all of us.
Okay,
the red tide is truly, truly bad. We
have the tide tickle (an itch in your throat that gets you coughing) and the
waters look like an abattoir…totally stinky with loads of bloated, rotting fish
and sea snakes. A police boat stopped by
today to check-in and mentioned that it likely lightens up south of
Venice. Sorry Sarasota but it sounds
like a good time for us to move south.
We made a final supermarket run and headed ashore for award winning
burgers at Patrick’s 1481 for dinner (3/6).
Yes, the burgers are amazing…36 years and counting. Cheers Sarasota – we’ll catch ya next time.
From
Sarasota we made a longer hop at 43 miles, 7.5hrs and 9 bridges (3/7). We changed microclimates from mainland
coastlines with barrier islands connected by bridges to gulf islands accessible
only by boat. Pelican Bay of Cayo Costa
will be our anchorage for a week. There
are a couple dozen cruising boats with dinghys – monohull sailboats, catamarans
(sail and power) as well as trawlers and motor yachts. This feels familiar. We settled in for a great sunset with cheese
and crackers and a moonrise that was bright and full…tough for the stars to
compete. Below the constellations were a
star studded collection of mast lights.
Aahhh.
The
eye of Hurricane Ian made landfall at Cayo Costa five months ago on September
28, 2022. Ranger structures, cabins and
docks ashore are in shambles but the Bay floor remains as charted (thanks
BoatUS). Palm trees are lopped off and
the vegetation line looks as if a hedge trimmer has been at it…well, I guess it
has. We walked the beach which has an
eerie silence in photos but feels much more alive with the dolphins, manatees,
pelicans, ibis, ospreys and on and on both above and below the water (3/8). But then there’s the fish in the tree which
certainly leaves a trace of Mother Nature’s fury that happened here.
Our
days unfolded with a bit of boat TLC combined with island exploration. The top deck was our focus with cleaning of
the dinghy storage cradle area and replacement of full enclosure bungees
(3/9). The winds have worn out existing
bungees and having the right tool makes all the difference for replacement. Light afternoon conditions made for a smooth
three mile dinghy to Cabbage Key for Duke basketball and a bit of lunch. The Cabbage Key Creeper is a delicious rum
charged pina colada with kahlua floater.
Cheers! We were back to Barefeet
for sunset followed by an explosion of stars.
This
is a lovely spot but it’s made even better when friends join us. Kim and Dave zipped down from Sarasota…with
barbeque chicken, kale slaw and cauliflower potato salad in tow (3/11). Chef Dave spoils us rotten – thank you! We rafted together and soaked in the place
before heading to Matlache (say mat-la-shay).
The artsy fishing village looks like a hoot with a bit of Bahamas vibe
thrown in, too. Sadly, much hurricane
damage remains such as tarps and sand bags.
Although we did not go ashore we would love to return. Back we went to Barefeet and our pristine
nature. Sunday fun day is all about the
beach in Florida…especially when the sun is shining (3/12). Boats were cheek to jowl with tunes cranking,
filled coolers and antics on t-tops.
The
birds continue to dive bomb for fish and the bait balls seem to randomly slam
into Barefeet’s hull. Bam! Whack!
We hauled up the dinghy after one more swing through the Manatee Lagoon. Dark skies are coming and we are moving along
tomorrow. Bummer – no fresh water rinse
for us…just enough moisture to make a salt crust around Barefeet.
Winds
cranked up during the night but our anchor was well stuck and the winds nicely
mellowed by morning. Off we went to
anchor off St James City on the southern end of Pine Island (3/14). We splashed the dinghy and headed to Low Key
Tiki. Hurricane damage is much more
visible here with palm tree fronds jutting out at wonky angles like Christmas
decorations crammed into a box since last year, homes with plywood over doors
and windows, tarps on rooftops held in place by sand bags and boats dropped
upside down in yards. The initial
reaction is definitely sadness but pretty quickly there are the unmistakable
sounds of whirring electric screwdrivers and pounding hammers. They are getting on with it and moving
forward. Grills are on newly built decks
and campers are shiny as homes are rebuilt.
Low Key Tiki was open for business…albeit with a temporary menu on a
laminated 8.5x11 piece of paper. We
chatted with regulars each with a story to tell but who all ended their tales
with…it could have been worse, the storm was just so slow. Humans are resilient. The thatched-roof of the bar weathered the
storm perfectly without a frond out of place.
The reason we were told was because the Indians built it (no kidding –
booked out months in advance). Check out
the high tech order-up technology from the kitchen to the bar…yep, a string
through the wall to a bell. The padlock
weights the clanger so that it only clangs once…not…forever. And the rope to the right of the door? That’s to lower the disco ball…duh. So fun!
Mother
Nature cranked up the winds so we departed early for Naples (3/15). Problem is that our Naples City Docks
reservation does not start for two days and the docks are full. We thought we could anchor in the Naples
canals but called BoatUS to confirm.
Yep, Todd gave us a screen shot of exactly where to go. Bingo!
We have another distinct microclimate change from pristine nature on a
Gulf island without so much as an outhouse ashore to mainland south Florida
with stunningly tended homes on water canals (well tended is an understatement
– it’s one of the wealthiest towns in America on any list or ranking). And we were anchored smack in the middle of
the S&P 500 titan’s neighborhood of Port Royal. Our early arrival gave us a chance to meet up
with one of Chris’ college buddies, Justin.
We met at The Dock at Crayton Cove and quite literally closed the place
down. Okay, they close at 9pm but we
could have stayed for hours more. Next
time.
Our
anchorage is quite the spot for tourist boats and local boaters because it is
well protected from winds and waves of the Gulf of Mexico which is currently
pretty snotty. All of a sudden someone
started hollering, “Barefeet, Barefeet!”
Hey, that’s Karla and Paul from m/v September. They are down from Kentucky visiting her
brother (and his boat). The last time we
saw these guys was on the locks and rivers in Illinois. It is a fantastically small world! Our anchor spot is like a mill pond; however,
the run to town in the dinghy is a bit harrowing as speedboats fly; I mean FLY
(seems the 30 mph speed limit is really just a suggestion). Our dinghy can handle the wakes but it’s best
to turn into them. Well, that gets a bit
hairy as we turn perpendicular to the channel attempting not to be run over by
the next boat barreling down the channel.
It is definitely a two person driving strategy…Chris looking ahead and
Erin looking behind. This raucous commute to
town made us happy to move to the Naples City Dock…a simple walk to the Cove
Inn Coffee Shoppe for breakfast (3/17).
Gulp, the neighbors are big here, too.
Check out the anchor through our back windows. We catch our breathe every time we see it.
There
is no denying the beauty that is Naples: bougainvillea color explosions,
bottlebrush splashes of red, heavy scented gardenia, mature trees shading grass
and outdoor tables. And lest you ever
forget the countless zeros attached to nearly everyone, there are the not
infrequent Gulf Stream private jets arriving and departing overhead. And I almost forgot – there’s a beach. It is a lovely corner of the planet. We got a personal introduction from long time
Boston friend, Olguita, and her husband, Tim.
It was great to catch up and we heard first hand the impact of Hurricane
Ian. Hurricane Ian was felt by many with
feet of yuck water on the ground level of homes for hours...gggrrr. Cars
destroyed, everything soaked with awful water, floors buckled...you get the
drill. It was a particular challenge for residents because forecasts all
said the storm was heading for Tampa, Tampa, Tampa...then it wobbled...and it
hit Fort Myers and Naples. Olguita and
Tim should be sorted out in about one month…not a fun road.
We
headed to The Boathouse on Naples Bay hoping to catch some March Madness
tournament action (3/18). We thought our
chances were good because the day was sunny and stunning which would keep
everyone outside. Nope. It was three deep at the bar. However, with eagle eyes and honed bar skills
we soon scored two bar stools from departing locals. Plus, we learned that most of the boats
flying out the channel are headed for Keewaydin Island. It’s a sand bar, beach chair, only accessible
by boat kind of party with food boats selling burgers, dogs, fries, ice cream,
etc. We’ll check that out next
time. In the meantime, weather is
changing which has bad weather pushed out one day and delays our
departure. Normally, this would not be a
problem; however, at the moment we are dealing with a boat insurance renewal
fire drill. We need to get a quick-haul,
out-of-water boat survey ASAP. Will we
be able to move everything a day so that we can get from Naples to Stuart? Will we be able to stay on the City Docks for
one more night? Slowly, slowly. We enjoyed more time with Olguita and Tim as
well as a snazzy dinner for two at Sea Salt (3/20).
After
the cold front came through (yes, we eventually got the word that we could stay
on the dock for one more night) the seas laid down for a mellow ride out on the
Gulf from Naples to Fort Myers (3/21).
Hurricane Ian’s impact is clearly visible in Fort Myers with stripped
vegetation, upended boats and missing structures. It is very sad. We continued along the Caloosahatchee River to anchor just before the Franklin Lock. We were treated to a stunning sunset over
pulled pork nachos followed by an amazing star show. The next day we made another microclimate
change. This time to agrarian central
Florida complete with herds of cattle and crops of sugarcane (3/22). Plus, we were again on gator patrol. We passed through three locks with a total
rise of 13 feet as well as the Fort DeNaud swing bridge (bridge tender has to
leave her building to operate the bridge but is all smiles). Our travels ended today tied up at Roland
Martin Marina in Clewiston – always a favorite due to dock master Capt Sam.
An
early departure meant light winds as we crossed Lake Okeechobee from the west coast to the east coast of Florida (3/23). The most drama we had was the spectacular
smoke of a wild fire or burning of sugarcane fields on the shore of the lake. The real action started as we squeezed into a
spot on the wall at River Forest Yachting Center in Stuart (thanks
George). This was our summer home on the
hard for several years so the familiarity is nice. We prepped for the boat survey and quick haul
tomorrow at 8am; scampered, cleaned, organized, changed a fuel filter and house
water filter. We were pooped at the end
of the day which made the make-ahead Chinese Vermicelli perfect for dinner
alongside a bit of sauteed chicken (recipe below).
The
insurance renewal survey has had us juggling schedules, weather and shrinking
water depths on Lake Okeechobee but we did it and are ready for the
survey. Doug of Birely Marine Surveying
inspected the boat from stem to stern for two hours before hauling the boat and
checking below the water line (3/24).
Hitting the hull with a rubber hammer is part of the process but always
makes us cringe. Boat lift operator JP
has never dropped a boat in 18 years and this is a major reason we really
wanted to haul at River Forest. JP’s
record is intact. A quick pressure wash,
zinc check/replacement and we were splashed back in the water at 11.30am. Sheesh, we are emotionally pooped – garnering
boat insurance for a boat in Florida is a wild ride at the moment. Pendarvis Cove was our anchor spot just off
Stuart. The survey arrived in our inbox
at 4.30pm. Barefeet passed with flying
colors. Yippee – one step closer to renewed
boat insurance. We celebrated on the top
deck with espresso martinis and a homemade margarita pizza.
Fueled
up with dropped eggs on toast and baked beans had us ashore to check out Stuart
(3/25). It was a scorcher of a day. Just after tying up the dinghy at Shepard
Park Chris spotted a barber – a friendly Boston dude who has been in Stuart for
30 years…but…clearly loves New England based on the entire wall of Red Sox and
Patriots framed photos. The Stuart Art
Festival made the place pretty packed so we popped into coffee bar Blue Door on
SE Osceola St for some shade and iced tea.
Riverwalk Café and Oyster Bar on SW St Lucie Ave was a wonderful gem of
a dinner (thanks for the tip surveyor Doug).
The tuna nachos, fried calamari Rhode Island style and chicken francais
were positively delicious.
Morning
dawned quiet and still with just a few mild wakes passing in the channel (3/26). The only sounds were dolphin exhales as they
gently rolled to the surface for some air.
Up came the anchor and we were through the St Lucie RR Bridge. Yippee – this is the last structural
impediment we are aware of on our way north.
It will be closed for three weeks starting May 1st. Down went the anchor tucked into Manatee
Pocket just before the St Lucie Inlet, in a no wake zone.
As
long as our boat storage summer plan to leave Barefeet in Jacksonville comes
together with a renewed boat insurance policy we have a mere 200 miles to go
before our season ends in about three weeks.
That is a super civilized schedule now that we are solidly on the east coast of Florida.
Our idea is to spend a few days in Vero Beach, maybe catch a rocket
launch, spend a few days in St Augustine…something like that. Time will
tell.
Chinese
Vermicelli
(Seattle’s Pasta & Co and Deb s/vWings) serves 6
¼
cup sesame oil
¼
cup black soy sauce (or molasses)
2
Tablespoons sugar
2
Tablespoons hot chili oil (optional)
2
Tablespoons black vinegar (or balsamic)
1
1/2 lbs fresh rice vermicelli noodles or one lb dry (or spaghetti)
½
cup sesame seeds, toasted
1
cup green onions, thinly sliced for garnish
·
In
a large bowl whisk together sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, chili oil and
vinegar.
·
Cook
noodles to desired doneness/package directions.
·
Drain,
rinse with cold water and drain again.
·
With
your hands immediately toss noodles with the dressing, making sure noodles are
completely and evenly coated.
·
Chill
at least 4 hours. Mix once during this
time.
·
Add
seeds and continue folding dressing throughout noodles. Remove to shallow platter, top with green
onions. Serve room temperature.
