Trent-Severn
Waterway Wraps Up: July 27 2022
Our
Great Loop continued along the Trent-Severn Waterway through locks 6-12 to tie
up at the Campbellford wall in the evening (7/13). The scenery is stunning (with Waterway run
campsites dotted along the way) and the lock process is slow and steady (even at
the double lift lock, 11 and 12). We
walked along the wall with a cocktail to say “hi” to fellow boaters before the
rain started. Campbellford has a few
things to see…like the Dooher’s Bakery (voted the sweetest bakery in
Canada). Their cream filled donuts are a
big hit but a sleeper tip came from a lock tender who used to work there…the
pizza bagel. Yum! They were both tender, soft and absolutely
delicious (7/14).
The
Ranney Gorge Suspension Bridge was nearby so we walked a bit of the Trans
Canada Trail for a peek and a further stroll along the Waterway. Back aboard I had planned on updating the
blog; unfortunately, chaos exploded and it is going to take some time to sort
it all out. Drat! In the meantime, more local exploring led to
Empire cheese (purchased at Sharpe’s Market), World’s Finest Chocolate factory
outlet (my sisters and I used to sell this chocolate for group fundraisers
growing up – quite the blast from the past) and the giant Toonie (a local
artist created the polar bear on the Canadian two dollar coin). Dinner at Capers Tap House was delicious and
gave us a chance to laugh and chat with customers and staff. Fun night.

Most
of the 44 locks are powered by lock tenders pushing a wheel in a circle to open
and close the wooden lock doors.
However, the larger locks are hydraulic and worked with the push of a
button. Despite being fueled up with a
second breakfast at Dooher’s Bakery we had a fender-and-rope-swap dance of a
day which had us pooped...starboard side tie, port side tie, starboard side
tie, double lift lock up and starboard side tie through locks 13-18
(7/15). Fellow boaters, m/v Cygnus,
photo-ed us in lock action. The Waterway
transit has every fender and every rope deployed. Ship shape is not the term for Barefeet right
now, she’s purpose ready and making miles.
Just like us with tan lines from tshirts and shorts rather than bikinis
and trunks. For the night we anchored in
Rice Lake with mirror smooth water, loons singing, homemade pizza and a great
sunset. Onward tomorrow.

Morning
dawned with chatty cows, periodic loon song, woodpeckers, ducks, geese and gobs
more birds that we cannot identify. Calm
conditions continued as we crossed Rice Lake and made our way along Otonabee
River (7/16). Current weather is so
wonderful in shorts and t-shirts that it is hard to imagine the long and cold
winters that so dominate this area…but the hockey sticks hung on interior walls
of the boat houses give us a hint.
Today, progress was 30 miles but only one lock. And since it was Saturday we were joined in
the lock by a run about motor boat, a jet ski, 2 kayaks and another cruising
boat. It is weekend fun and we anchored
in the middle of it in Little Lake…perfect seats for the evening Peterborough
Musicfest performance in the amphitheater.
The band (Dwayne Gretzky) cranked classic pop rock to a packed lawn and
water crowd. Definitely feels like
summer!

We
strolled around Peterborough past street murals, terracotta shamrocks on Hunter
Bridge…and checked out the main draw in town…the Peterborough Lift Locks
(7/17). We’ll pass through them tomorrow
and reconfirmed that our 5.5 foot draft is okay to pass. Yep, no problem. Dinner was a jovial time of conversation with
locals at McThirsty’s Pint. Forecasted
morning rain kept us at anchor until it lightened up at about Noon (7/18). Off we went but it was a pump fake and the
rain continued for the rest of the day.
Our passing through the Peterborough Lift Lock was amazing. Holy cow: it consists of two pans of
water/bathtubs (filled at 1300 tons each), boats load into a pan, gates close,
one foot of water is added to the upper pan (now heavier by 130 tons), the
heavier upper pan now descends forcing the lower chamber up 65 feet, gates open
and we are on our way – wow. We were
joined by the sightseeing paddlewheel cruise boat…and we think we are in a few
family summer albums. We called it a day
on the wall of Lock 22. Wildflowers
abound and a well tended lock garden is open to all.

After
passing through five locks we were into the Lakes Region loaded with summer
cottages (growing into McMansions like everywhere else) and a real summer vibe
– like being dropped into a mash-up of Maine (without lobster pots) and Lake
Winnipesaukee (7/19).

Our
travel pace is faster than we expected with little time for dawdling (or
hobbies – for me: needlepoint or a pine needle basket and for Chris: python
coding) because Mother Nature is in charge of our dance card so unless we want
to be frozen in place we need to keep moving despite this great weather. Everyone tells us that Canadian summer is the
last week and a half in July. No
kidding, EVERYONE. Including a scene
from the TV show “How I Met Your Mother” when Canadian character Robin
comments, “I dated him all summer”…conversation, conversation…”Wait, you dated
him for only 1 ˝ weeks.” Robin
exasperatedly clarifies, “Yes, like I said – I dated him all summer.” We are lucky to catch this fleeting time and
moved along in stunning Stony Lake with swimming off the boat and cranking
tunes. It is summer!

During
breakfast a cottage owner stopped by in her carbon fiber rowing skull
(7/21). She filled us in on the area
including the big storm about a week ago.
The eye passed right over the lake and tumbled trees (already weakened
from gypsy moths last year) as well as cottage foundations. That storm was what we left Kingston one day
early in order to avoid Lake Ontario in an uproar. Phew for us but the Stony Lake damage is
massive. However, we had our own bit of
weather at a pinch point between two granite rock clusters. Rain and wind so on went the radar. Slowly nearing the pinch point. What?!
Three boat coming the other way.
Yikes – slammed it into reverse in a narrow channel with shallow
edges. Such quick turns that the
auto-pilot couldn’t keep up. Where are
we?! That was awful! The bird in the water is standing on a ROCK - navigation is a big challenge (see picture below).

Our
heart rates got back to normal and we stopped for the night outside
Bobcaygeon. It’s a busy place so we
anchored on Pigeon Lake and dinghied into town.
Bigley’s Shoes (est 1911) is as massive an emporium as billed with
shoes, clothes, water sports gear…you name it.
A stroll of the town then we settled into 72 Bolton Sports Café for burgers,
the odd happy puppy and tips from locals for our upcoming locale of Georgian
Bay. Thanks!

Winds
dropped and it was a slow morning of ham and cheese crescent rolls for
breakfast (7/22). The Bobcaygeon Lock
(#32) is always VERY busy so we started calling the lock at 9am (opening time)
to see when there was room for us to come onto the blue line (next up in the
lock). No need to poke our nose into the
frenzy because there is not even enough room for us to turn around in the alley
approach to the lock. About an
hour-and-a-half later things calmed down and in we went. The photo shows our exit…jet skis,
run-abouts, house boats, tinnys, kayaks and more. On we went to Fenelon Falls where we found a
spot on the lower wall for the night. No
power or water but at $1CAN/foot it is a great deal and has us plunk in the
center of this cute town. First stop –
Kawartha Dairy Company ice cream at Slices and Scoops. Yum!

Today,
we broke many of our casual guidelines for the waterway: don’t do more than 6
locks (we did 8 locks, nos. 34-41); don’t drive more than four hours (we drove
7hrs), don’t travel much on weekends (today is Saturday during the height of
Canadian summer vacation). All of this
was done in the name of Mother Nature who is supposed to bring buckets of rain
and strong winds tomorrow. The long day
was made even more challenging with the Trent Canal (7/23). It’s super narrow and a v-cut through granite
rocks. Gulp. All went well until the very end when a GIANT
houseboat came into view. No worries –
the houseboat gang were fabulous. All
eight passengers grabbed trees on the side of the canal and hugged them close
until we passed. Phew – that was
amazing! After that the Kirkfield lift
lock was a breeze - complete with those bathtubs/pans full of water. Out we came to manmade lakes…bump,
bump…with deadheads. And a final bump as
we exited through Hole In The Wall Bridge.
A local boater and lock buddy described it as a weird stretch of water –
bingo. We made it past the final swing
bridge of the day and tied to jetty walls just before entering Lake
Simcoe. “Freedom!” As stated by bridge
tender Jennifer – could not have said it better. Her little bridge tender mushroom was a
welcome sight. Loaded nachos on the top
deck were a satisfying reward after the long day.

We
were still a bit pooped after yesterday but the rainy forecast did not
encourage much activity anyway (7/24). Inside
project - the freezer was unloaded and defrosted while we stayed put. Between rain showers we walked the cottage
and farming community of Beaverton.
Bridge tender Jennifer was a font of knowledge and clued us in on the plaque
on the nearby bridge honoring Samuel de Champlain. Holy cow!
We have been traveling (in reverse) the route taken by explorer Samuel
de Champlain in 1615 with a team of Huron Indian warriors who paddled and
walked: across Lake Simcoe, up Talbot River to portage to Balsam Lake to Sturgeon
Lake to the head waters of the Trent River at bay of Quinte Bay enroute to Lake
Ontario. Wow! We humans are a curious and technologically
advancing bunch…canoes and paddles to float planes?!

In
the hopes of lighter winds we crossed Lake Simcoe early in the morning (7/25). It was pretty sporty and we bounced our way across. We anchored outside the marina waiting for it
to open. Yikes – weeds were back and
were not totally removed from the anchor until we were tied up at slip #180 in
Port Orillia Municipal Marina. The weeds
mess with the depth gauge, too. We read
4 feet in the marina fairway but were told it was 7 feet…at the slip we were 9
feet upon arrival but 14 feet a few hours later. We strolled the cute town that began as a
trading post in 1815. Bakeries, homemade
jams, cottage charm and bikinis were all options.

Morning
dawned beautifully as we awoke in the Muskoka Lakes region (7/26). This area is known for multi-million dollar
“cottages” with equally exquisite scenery.
We will be cruising this corner of the planet through the remainder of
the Trent-Severn Waterway, Georgian Bay and the North Channel. Maybe we’ll bump into Goldie Hawn and Kurt
Russell (supposedly they are two of the many celebrities in the area). Off we pedaled for some bike exploration on
the Oro-Medonte Rail Trail towards Barrie.
The gravel rail trail was completely separate from roads and bordered by
cat tails, Queen Ann’s lace, blooming wildflowers and swans floating on ponds. The afternoon had us getting sorted out with
chores like laundry, fresh fruit and vegetables (some from a local farm),
scrubbing bathrooms and filling water tanks.
Our day ended with a dinner of burgers, dogs and milkshakes from 100+
year old French’s…just a beach shack surrounded by the lakeside Couchiching
Park.
Okay
today is the big day. The Big Chute
Marine Railway Lock day (7/27). But
first we needed to get past the railroad swing bridge (open on demand but could
have been a wait since there was a derailment yesterday resulting in heavier
than normal traffic today). It was open
when we arrived – yippee. Two more locks – steady and smooth. Now or never.
It’s chute time. Big boats like
us (larger than 11’ beam) can only pass during the week and staffing has been
an issue this summer. We nosed up to the
blue line and waited. It’s offline,
closed, maintenance that should wrap up soon but the best comment was from a
lock tender when I pointed to our spot in the growing queue, “You have a good
chance of getting through today.” We’ll
take it. Sling points were marked on the
side of the boat with painter’s tape and fenders were pulled on deck. We’re up!
The PA system directed us into the steel carriage (30’ high and 27’
wide) where we floated into slings (like a travel lift), water drained out,
carriage moved along railroad tracks over an auto road, forward 600 feet, down
27 feet and plopped into the water on the other side. It sounded scary, looked like a
roller-coaster ride but was actually the easiest lock yet. My knees rattled but Chris was giddy at the technological
achievement. Lock staff even eyeballed
our bottom and said all looks good - thanks (and, phew, after our bumps earlier
in the Waterway). We finished the day at
5pm tied up at Starport Marina in Port Severn.
Celebrations are in order! First
toast is to the Naiades (Greek freshwater nymphs) since Poseidon (Greek God of
the sea) is over 500 miles away. New old
fashion cocktails and farm fresh tomato sandwiches on Wilke’s Bakery bread were
amazing on our lake back porch and we feel great!
We
have one more lock to go and we will be into Georgian Bay with the 240 miles
and 44 locks of the Trent-Severn Waterway in the rear-view mirror. We need to pinch ourselves.
Refrigerator
Pickles
(Pia Staerke)
1
cucumber, peeled and sliced and halved
1
cup boiling water
1
Tablespoon sugar
˝
cup white vinegar
Dash
salt and pepper
Dissolve
sugar in boiling water. Add remaining
ingredients, cucumbers last. Store in
fridge in air tight container until chilled and ready to serve.