Continued River
Drifting through Kentucky, Tennessee and Mississippi: October 24 2022
Green
Turtle Bay Marina is located in Grand Rivers, KY. It’s a spot where the Cumberland and
Tennessee Rivers come in from the north and exit to the south in the form of Lake
Barkley and Kentucky Lake then continue along again as the Cumberland and
Tennessee Rivers. It is a perfect spot
to explore the Land Between the Lakes (LBL).
This narrow, wooded area has always been an isolated pocket of
wilderness. During Prohibition it was
home to one of the nation’s most notorious moonshining operation (capitalizing
on the limestone-rich mineral water and the abundant corn in the area). LBL is an island peninsula that was created
in 1963 by President Kennedy as a recreational and environmental area when the
dams were built and the area was flooded, creating Lake Barkley on one side and
Kentucky Lake on the other. The dams
have a very practical purpose that is coming into play right now in 2022. Because of below-normal rainfall in the
midwest, the Mississippi River at Cairo, IL, is approaching its lowest river
level since 1901 (at harvest transport time, no less). To help stabilize commercial navigation conditions on the
lower Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, the Tennessee Valley Authority is scheduling
special water releases from the Kentucky Dam on the Tennessee River and the Barkley
Dam on the Cumberland River to help low river level impacts.
For
me and Chris, Land Between the Lakes represents 40 miles/170,000 acres of
undeveloped shoreline, hiking trails, campsites and secluded coves loaded with
wildlife such as bald eagles, deer, turkeys and armadillos. We hopped on the bikes and headed for the
hiking trails (10/9). Today, we only saw
an armadillo but hope for more wildlife when we boat along the LBL on Kentucky
Lake/Tennessee River in a couple of days.
In
the meantime, we moved slips due to a high volume of looper boats migrating
south (10/10). Green Turtle recently
changed from family owned and operated to corporate which is straining
operations and causing grumbles from both staff and boaters. Time will tell how this favored spot will evolve. On the up-side our slip move meant that we
got to see how the covered slip folks live (10/10). Wow – covered finger piers 70 slips long and
totally tricked out; floor mats, twinkle lights, sofas, dining sets, mounted
TVs, grills, smokers…clearly, we need to up our boat porch game. Finally, borrowing the courtesy car for two
hours gave us a chance to make quick, last minute runs to the dentist (nothing
to worry about – just a check), the supermarket (it has been so long since we
last saw Monterey Jack cheese) and the liquor store (it’s an adventure every
day and a party every night on the water).
Completed laundry and filling of both water tanks had us ready to toss
the lines tomorrow morning.
And
toss the lines we did (10/11). Our
current itinerary has us slowing down our miles per day in order not to get to
Mobile, AL, before November 1st (due to a boat hurricane insurance
requirement). I tidied up the deck by
stowing lines and fenders for our next few lock-free days which has Barefeet
feeling more like a boat again. We
tucked into Clay Bay to anchor for the night.
It’s a Land Between the Lakes cove all to ourselves except for the periodic
bass boat fisherman, soaring eagles, graceful deer and an elderly, limping feral
pig. Not a light or structure
ashore. The next day was another gentle
ride on the lazy river until a squall hit just as we were pulling into our
anchor spot (10/12). Sheesh – on went
the radar because we needed to pick the center spot between the islands. At 30ft deep we needed to drop 150ft of
chain…islands were only 400ft apart which made our 300ft of swing room work only if
we dropped in the center. Buckets of
rain as the chain dropped turned Erin into a drowned rat. Honest – not a few sprinkles on her
shoulders…it looked like she had jumped into the river. A hot shower followed by BLTs and a well
deserved anchor beer were perfect. The
storm passed quickly resulting in a quiet night (and a great boat wash).
Morning
dawned dry and peaceful for another gentle meander on the lazy river (10/13). The Fall colors ashore are exploding and mix
with the stone bluffs to make for an impressive sight at Lady Finger Bluff. We passed under bridges, past a few barges
and even a dredger but there wasn’t any drama on this wide stretch of
river. For the night we anchored off
Beech Creek Island and dinghied into Clifton for a look around. Town is about three blocks and not much more
than a Bank, a coffee shop and the Chamber of Commerce…just as expected since
the googles didn’t even show that much. As
planned, we had dinner at the Clifton Marina Bar and Grill where the food was fabulous and the vibe could not
have been more welcoming from Susan (Mom), Christopher (son) and Stacey
(daughter-in-law); pulled pork sandwich, gator bites with mojo sauce and a stellar
Old Fashioned cocktail. Heck, Chris even
found a new favorite beer brewed in…Scotland?!
Quite a place. Family owned and
operated rocks!
The
sun rose to dense fog which meant there was no need for us to rush off. By 9am it had lifted and we were on our way
(10/14). Water levels are clearly a
concern on the Tennessee River due to the shoreline covered with all fashions
of stairs, ladders, stilts and countless tons of riprap. We have seen exposed, dry river banks and
channel depths of generally 30-50ft; however, channel depths have ranged from
12ft to 70ft. In 2019 the river rose
39ft to record levels. That is A LOT of
water that crept and crept and crept - higher and higher as rains continued to
soak the area. To put it into
perspective - global tides average 3.3ft with the outlier Bay of Fundy being
52ft. We have been happy to be transiting
in October rather than in February.
Winds kept up in the afternoon as we anchored behind Wolf Island (near
Savannah, TN) but the anchor stuck well for a peaceful dinner of homemade
chicken tikka masala. Fabulous!
In
the morning the boat still smelled marvelously like a curry house after our
masala dinner last night making for a warm and comfy start to the day despite the grey skies. Our short mileage day included one lock so
out came the ropes and fenders again. We
passed through Pickwick Lock smoothly with numbered floating bollards (so
civilized)…up we went 50ft. Out of the
lock we emerged into Pickwick Lake where shores are more thickly wooded, the houses
are BIG and autumn colors are even more vibrant (10/15). Again, not a structure in site as we anchored
in the cove of Zippy Branch, MS. Yep –
we are in a new state – Mississippi.
Sausage, cheese and chile baked casserole dip with tortilla chips for dinner at
the end of the rainy day paired perfectly with the final Daniel Craig as James Bond
movie. This dip really is a
stunner! The ingredients patiently wait
in the larder (forever) until needed to warm the soul and fill the belly - we've made
it tons of times, always a crowd pleaser (recipe below). Enjoy!
Within
one hour of departing Zippy Cove we were tied up in slip D42 at Aqua Yacht
Marina in Iuka, MS (10/16). There is not
much in the area despite being the point where Alabama, Tennessee and Mississippi come together (that’s A LOT of letters).
The big draw here is a means to visit the Civil War battlefield of
Shiloh. No kidding – there is not a
rental car to be had in Clifton, Savannah or Iuca. The option for wheels is a courtesy van from
Aqua Yacht (they have three).
Thanks! We made a quick visit
within the 2.5hr courtesy car time limit.
The 5,000 acre Shiloh Battlefield has placards and markers in three
colors designating the three fighting armies; the Army of the Ohio (Major
General Don Carlos Buell), the Army of the Mississippi (General Albert Sidney
Johnston, killed) and the Army of the Tennessee (Major General U.S.
Grant). Shiloh was a battle – most
definitely fierce and bloody (the bloodiest battle up to this point in American
history) but more importantly it was an emotional wound to both the North and
the South. It was the first battle of
the Civil War that shocked Americans into seeing just how long and just how
terrible the war would be…occurring one year into the fighting with three fiery
years yet to go. For a few specific facts:
the battle lasted two days in April 1862; it included events named bloody pool
and hornet’s nest; battle lead switched at least twice; most soldiers were
barely trained; it was the first major battle in the Western theater and
leaders on both sides were severely criticized.
New Orleans novelist George Washington Cable commented that, “The South
never smiled again after Shiloh.” Chris
and I were humbled.
Needing
to switch up the mojo we turned to football at the Aqua Yacht Harbor
Grille. Nibbling on a burger and fried
catfish with fries and hushpuppies (yum) while chatting college football with
locals at the bar is so fun! Ha –
definitely not many sad faces after Tennessee’s upset of Alabama. Mississippi is starting to take shape for us…Elvis,
back country roads, race cars and, hey, that’s the state flag – the magnolia
state.
The
forecast cold snap arrived which had us extending our stay at Aqua Yacht for another
night so we could crank the heaters in the low 30F morning temps with
accompanying freeze warnings. It also
gave us a chance to do some route planning from here to Columbus, MS. It’s approx. 120 miles with 8 locks so we needed
lots of bail out ideas depending on our speed passing through the locks. We’re ready!
Chris had a zoom call and Erin headed to Freddy T’s for dinner with the
marina courtesy car (10/18). Yes, even
the guys at the bar thought it was a bad idea for Erin to walk to the bar…with
the whizzing lumber trucks along the highway and no shoulder or sidewalk to
speak of. After cranking the heaters we
tossed the lines at 8am. Oops – tread carefully on the ice on Barefeet’s decks…crazy slippery. Despite the crisp temps it was a tranquil day to the Natchez Trace anchorage of five fingers without
a structure or antenna in sight (10/19).
The location is again bursting with stunning fall colors and we cannot
wait for the stars to come out. Chilly
temperatures were made cozy with a roast chicken dinner on a bed of onions and
potatoes (recipe below). Yum! We are always happy for this meal.
The
cold snap continues which has us happy to be moving south where its
warmer. Behind us the early cold snap
has docks winterizing by shutting down fresh water at places like Paducah, KY,
and Clifton, TN. Morning smoke on the
water at Natchez Trace silhouetted the fishermen to beautiful effect. Okay, up comes the anchor - let’s see how far
we can run today?! We were super lucky
with the locks continuing on the Tenn-Tom for 8.5hrs, roughly 50 miles, 6
locks and 222 feet lower in lock elevation (10/20). It was great progress as we make our way back
to sea level. Our day ended at almost
5pm anchored in Canal Section Cut-off.
So
many miles yesterday means an easier day today (10/21). Our river motoring feels like an eco-system
change with loads more birds and wooded forest all the way down to the
shoreline with a swampy kinda vibe is creeping in, too. Just two locks and we were anchored in the
oxbow beside Columbus, MS. Dinghy dock
is a stone’s throw away and town is just a few blocks beyond that. Perfect!
The
cold snap is over and we are loving Columbus, MS (population 23,500). College football allegiances fly from every
porch, the southside historic district is packed with lovingly maintained homes
of architectural beauty and “sweet tea” is a Best Of category in the annual
restaurant awards. Playwright Tennessee
Williams was born here so we started with a tour of his first home (10/22). Downtown
Columbus has its share of historic Main Street storefronts similar to the historic homes
in the residential neighborhoods.
Zachary’s was a lively spot for Mississippi football games (Ole Miss and
Mississippi State); unfortunately, neither won.
A
walk along the winding Riverwalk Trail beside the Tombigbee River was a nice
way to start the day (10/23). After the
wooded trail we headed for the southside historic district where the homes are
architecturally beautiful as well as steeped in history - each with its own
story. Some are massive (originally
sitting on an entire city block and constructed over six years - Riverview),
others are cottages (graceful Louisiana style, yet, still sitting on a city
block - Lehmquen), others display extravagant tastes in the “Columbus Eclectic”
style (combining Gothic, Greek Revival and Italianate – White Arches) and yet
others are woven into the tapestry of history (a basement hospital after the
battle of Shiloh, a WWII servicemen’s center decorated with original artwork
sent by Walt Disney and as the place Eudora Welty described in 1939 as where
hospitality had reached its height, including the Whitehall Mint Julep –
Whitehall). We marvel at the work it
must take to keep the shimmer. Dinner
aboard centered around the remaining roast chicken…Lindy’s Delish
Roasted Cauliflower, Capers and Pasta (recipe below). Awesome flavors! Thanks Lindy.
We’ll
spend a few more days here enjoying our snug anchorage, warmer temperatures and exploring the
greater Columbus area before continuing south toward the Gulf of Mexico.
Sausage,
Cheese and Chile Casserole Dip (James Villas) serves 6-8
3/4lb
bulk pork sausage
8oz
cream cheese, room temperature
7oz
Rotel tomatoes and chiles, drained
1/4lb
extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated
Tortilla
chips for dipping
Optional
garnish: chopped cilantro once removed from the oven
1)
Fry
sausage over medium heat, breaking up with a fork until well cooked. Drain on paper towels.
2)
Preheat
oven to 350F. Grease 1.5qt casserole
dish.
3)
Combine
sausage, cream cheese and Rotel. Mix
well until blended.
4)
Scrape
into casserole. Sprinkle cheese evenly
on top. Bake until bubbly (approx. 20
minutes). Serve hot.
Note:
super forgiving and easily modified depending what you have on hand: any meat
will do (and since most sausage comes in 1lb size – I use that amount);
substitute one can of petit diced tomatoes (drained) and diced jalapenos (from
a jar) to preferred heat level for Rotel
Ina
Gerten’s Perfect Roast Chicken (Serves
3 to 4)
1 5- to 6-pound roasting chicken
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large bunch fresh thyme
1 lemon, halved
1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 Spanish onion, thickly sliced
1 cup chicken stock, preferably
homemade
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
·
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
·
Remove the chicken giblets. Rinse
the chicken inside and out. Remove any excess fat and leftover pinfeathers and
pat the outside dry.
·
Place the chicken in a large
roasting pan. Liberally salt and pepper the inside of the chicken. Stuff the
cavity with the bunch of thyme, both halves of the lemon, and all the garlic.
Brush the outside of the chicken with the butter and sprinkle again with salt
and pepper. Tie the legs together with kitchen string and tuck the wing tips
under the body of the chicken. Scatter the onion slices around the chicken.
·
Roast the chicken for 1-1/2 hours,
or until the juices run clear when you cut between a leg and thigh.
·
Remove to a platter and cover with
aluminum foil while you prepare the gravy.
·
Remove
all the fat from the bottom of the pan, reserving 2 tablespoons in a small cup.
Add the chicken stock to the pan and cook on high heat for about 5 minutes,
until reduced, scraping the bottom of the pan. Combine the 2 tablespoons of
chicken fat with the flour and add to the pan. Boil for a few minutes to cook
the flour. Strain the gravy into a small saucepan and season it to taste. Keep
it warm over a very low flame while you carve the chicken.
·
Slice
the chicken onto a platter and serve immediately with the warm gravy.
Erin’s
Note: I don’t fuss with the gravy and all is delicious.
Lindy’s
Delish Roasted Cauliflower, Capers and Pasta (serves 4)
1
head cauliflower, cut into bite-sized florets
6T
capers (plus juice), approx. 3.5oz jar
5T
olive oil
1/2
t salt
1/4t
pepper
¼
cup Parmesan, grated (more to serve)
1
onion, chopped
3
cloves garlic, minced
2t
fresh thyme, chopped
2T
lemon juice (more to serve)
Cooked
chicken, chopped (approx. 3 cups)
8oz
pasta (short – fusilli, rotini, bow tie, etc.)
·
Heat
oven to 425F
·
On
a baking sheet pan toss florets, 4T capers, 4T olive oil, salt and pepper until
coated Spread evenly and cook approx.
30-40 minutes until edges are well browned (stirring every 5 minutes)
·
Saute
onions in olive oil until translucent.
Add garlic and saute 1 minute.
Add 2T capers, caper juice, chicken, thyme and lemon juice.
·
Boil
pasta and drain.
·
Toss
all together with Parmesan cheese
·
Pass
lemon wedges and Parmesan cheese to serve
