Jaw-Dropping
Georgian Bay and Back to USA: August 9 2022
We
stayed an extra night at Starport Marina in Port Severn to catch our breath and
plan our upcoming legs across Lake Huron.
Port Severn is a small town which is perfect to stretch our legs. Breakfast
was not more than a wide spot in the road next to an Esso Gas Station;
however, it was top notch and very popular (7/28).
On the way back to the marina something caught our eye next to the
General Store…a pizza vending machine.
What?! Yep, pizza available 24/7 and cooked in three
minutes. Well, it was intriguing but we
stuck with Trading Post Cabin for dinner.

Off
the marina dock at 7am to be on the blue line and first in line for Lock 45
(7/29). This is a real milestone for
us. In the last two months we have
passed through 75 locks (23 in the Erie Canal, 8 on the Oswego Canal and 44 through
the Trent-Severn Waterway). The Trent
was the biggest nail biter because Barefeet is considered a big boat for the
waterway due to her 5 ½ foot draft (nothing more than 5 feet is
recommended…remember the waiver we signed back at Lock 1?!). We were a bit nervous we would have to turn
around at some point – phew – never happened (think of it like heading out on a
10-day backpack trip only to realize on day 7 that you left your wallet in the
car and would need to turn around – big bummer). Needless to say we are totally relieved. Plus, returning to open water is a schedule that better
suits us – getting up when we want rather than slotting into the lock schedule
of 9am-5.30pm with about 20 minutes to process through each lock. Exiting Lock 45 had us into Lake
Huron…specifically, Georgian Bay. Yippee! This
wilderness area has been eagerly anticipated by us as a high point of The Loop
and it is fabulous to enter these pristine waters! Gulp.
But it’s not all easy with navigation taken especially seriously, here,
since a mistake would mean tangling with hard granite. As the photo shows - channels are well marked
but can be complex. We wound our way
through pine studded granite channels to Frying Pan Island, Sans Souci, and
Henry’s restaurant for an iconic fish and chips dinner. The fish tonight was pickerel (fresh water
and part of the pike family). We made it
and it feels great!

For
centuries Georgian Bay has been travelled by canoes, sailors, fur traders,
lumber tugs, fishing boats, kayaks and now...Barefeet. Our strategy is to focus more on nature and
anchorages rather than cute towns. But
sometimes we get both. Like last night
at Sans Souci with Henry’s and tonight at Safe Harbour anchorage with Gilly’s
restaurant (7/30).

Morning
dawned with light weather conditions which meant we could travel offshore
rather than through the squirrely (but protected) small boat channel
(7/31). Off we went to the Bustard
Islands – an archipelago of large, small and tiny islands. Hook down and it was time for a bit of
boulder hopping and dinner aboard - the perfect way to soak in this stunner of
an anchorage.

Continuing
to move west we again had mild conditions that allowed us to travel offshore
past the town of Killarney – gateway to the North Channel (8/1). Killarney has a small community that makes a
welcoming cruiser stop; however, we decided to anchor just a bit beyond the
town at Covered Portage Cove. It’s a
summer weekend which has the inner cove looking packed so we anchored in the
outside cove. After we were anchored we dinghied inside to check out the space inside. Nope – too tight for our taste with boats
rafted together and tied to trees ashore…we’re happy in the outer cove. Back to Barefeet and a local cruiser couple
stopped by and filled us in on lots of local info – some we knew and some was
new to us. Thanks s/v Respite! Glad we did our exploring early because the
afternoon pelted down with rain before clearing up around dinner time.

Another
quiet morning provided a gentle ride to Baie Fine (pronounced Bay Fin) and a
check-in on The North Channel Cruisers’ Net.
The Net is hosted (and originated) by Roy Eaton with broadcasting from
Anchor Inn in Little Current daily at 9am on VHF 71 during July and August
(yes, the season is that short). Baie
Fine is a scenic fjord-like cut in the earth.
Wow – “scenic” is an understatement.
We headed about four miles up Baie Fine past May Anne Cove and into an
unnamed cove that we had all to ourselves. Our days
get, well, more and more remarkable with each new anchorage. For some aerial perspective we clambered up
the “tape” trail to Casson Peak. The root
and boulder path is better than bush-whaking as we followed orange tape tied to
trees and branches to a jaw-dropping panoramic view across Baie Fine, Frazier
Bay and McGregor Bay. And the only place with a cell signal to wish my sister a Happy Birthday.

Back
aboard Barefeet we did some laundry until the generator conked out. Dang it!
Seems there was an air lock in the system which overheated
everything. Must have been when we did
Lock 44 Big Chute and were out of the water.
We closed the main engine’s sea cock but did not do the same for the
generator. Laundry was finished with
power from the solar panels but the generator repair will wait until
tomorrow. Tonight is steaks on the grill
with wine, mashed potatoes and Greek salad bites. We are lucky to be visiting such a pristine
place.

The
expected rain arrived but the wind seemed from the opposite direction…maybe
these fjord-like walls have something to do with that. It was a quiet day kicked off with jalapeno
hash and eggs (8/3). This is a favorite
of ours from the Local Yolk in Manhattan Beach.
We have done our best to copy their masterpiece and at this
point…maybe…we make mashed potatoes for dinner simply to have jalapeno hash in
the morning (mashed potatoes, butter, salt, pepper, shredded jack cheese, cream
cheese, diced jar-style jalapenos). Plop
an egg on top and voila – nirvana. Next
up was the generator. Sure enough – bone
dry. The impellor took the brunt of the
damage (3 of the 4 fins were found - that is going to have to be good enough).
Back in business and we made water for two hours just to be sure. No cell or internet coverage so the fog
creeping down the pine covered ridge was especially entertaining.

Up
anchor early to pass through the town of Little Current and its’ swing bridge
(8/4). The bridge opens hourly for 15
minutes so we timed our arrival and continued to our destination - anchor between the
Benjamins. Wow! Did we mention how stunning the scenery
is?! Truly jaw-dropping. But sometimes the camera catches something
unexpected. I snapped a pic of a pretty
butterfly…but…it seems in reality it’s a dragonfly EATING a butterfly. Gulp – nature, red in tooth and claw. A bit more boulder hopping and back to
Barefeet when m/v Arion stopped by.
Great to see familiar faces! The
last time we saw these guys was in Oswego, NY.
It was fun to compare paths and experiences. See ya down the way.

We
love traveling in the morning when the light is soft and the world is
quiet. This stretch has the added
characteristic of placing us closer to the North Pole than to the Equator (8/5). Crazy, huh?!
This was a long, 10hr run to Drummond Island and Harbor Island’s
anchorage through a key hole entrance.
It’s well protected and 9ft nearly throughout. We checked back into the USA via the ROAM app
submission process and a phone call. A
month in Canada was not enough but winter is coming. We are in Michigan!

Another
morning of calm conditions had us moving onto St Ignace marina and a ferry to
Mackinac Island (8/6). Well, no – not
exactly. We arrived about Noon only to
have a slip snafu delay us for hours. A
not-yet-departed-sailboat racer hadn’t actually left the slip that we were told
to go to so we took the closest possible slip and chatted with the marina who
insisted on tracking down said racer to determine a move, no move outcome…bottom line - would we be able to stay? We waited and waited as
Mackinac Island evaporated for us. Oh well,
eventually we were told we could stay.
To salvage the day we walked the town and had a great dinner of a burger
and a southern fried BLT (fried green tomato, that is) at the Village Inn.

One
more long day of miles to find a good spot to hide for strong winds and rain
passing through. We tossed the lines,
slid under the Mackinac Bridge and moved from Lake Huron to Lake Michigan
(8/7). Lake Charlevoix has great
protection but first we had to get into the canal and through the draw bridge
(opens on the hour and half-hour).
Sounds straight forward but the rain and fog made things a bit trickier
as we did station keeping (hovered) for 20 minutes. Ah, hook down in Oyster Bay. We are snug!

Rain,
fog and cool temps arrived on schedule so we settled into a quiet day while
storms barreled through (8/8).
Thankfully, the weather lifted and cleared on schedule, too. We dinghied into charming Charlevoix to check
out the Mushroom Houses. Earl Young built
31 structures in Charlevoix over 52 years.
He used mostly stone, limestone, fieldstone and boulders he found around
Northern Michigan. They are like they
sound – cute and ready for a gnome to move in.
A few blocks away is the main drag full of blooming flower boxes, American
flags and everything cherry...at Cherry Republic (thanks for the tip s/v
Respite). We sampled and went home with
a cherry horseradish sauce perfect for pretzel dipping. Then it was off to Earl Young designed The
Weathervane for a drink followed by dinner at The Bridge Street Tap Room where
we learned a few more tid bits ahead on our trip. Thanks for the info! And check out the photo in the bar –
Charlevoix lighthouse in summer with swimmers and winter with ice…Mother Nature
leaves her mark in Michigan.

Storms…what
storms?! Today dawned quiet and clear so
it’s hard to remember the storms of yesterday.
Off we went for the 8am bridge opening and onto Suttons Bay (8/9). Our mouths are still agape at the massive
boat houses on Round Lake as we left the harbor. It was a gentle ride to Suttons Bay’s
Municipal Marina where we tied up to slips 31 and 32. No car rentals so it is a small town but it’s
criss-crossed with bike paths - excellent.
This is the first time we have been in a supermarket bigger than a
7eleven (okay, Hansen Foods' hard liquor section would fit on two card tables
but we can make it work). Hey, did we
mention that we are in Lake Michigan! At
dinner we chatted about possible routes to Chicago at Boone’s Prime Time Pub
over Arizona egg rolls (to die for) and juicy burgers. The choice is Michigan or Wisconsin…or a
little bit of both if we zig zag across the 50-ish miles of Lake Michigan
between them. Whichever path we choose
we look forward to summer vibes on this stunningly clear water.
