Crazy
Chesapeake Weather: June 2 2022

Chesapeake
weather continues to be variable which has us staying put one more day in
Deltaville, Virginia (5/5). The extra
day means we can visit the Maritime Museum and have Cinco de Mayo margaritas at
the Deltaville Tap & Raw Bar. The
Maritime Museum has a particular focus on wooden boatbuilding that began in the
area in the 1800s. The F.D. Crockett is
a floating exhibit beautifully restored by volunteers after continuously
working from 1924 to 1990…a log-bottom boat that moved products, people and
livestock up and down the Chesapeake until it became obsolete due to bridges
and trucking. The Crockett is a beautiful
work horse. Just a short stroll from the
museum to the waterside Tap & Raw Bar for a fun time meeting local folks and
getting ideas for things to check out the next time we are in town…like the Merroir
Tasting Room on the Rappahannock (https://www.rroysters.com/merroir-topping-va.html).

A
calm travel day before wild and wooly conditions set in had us on the north
side of the mouth of the Potomac anchored in well protected, good holding
Jutland Creek (5/6). The weather
forecast is for a solid week of no travel weather but it is hard to believe the
storm system will actually last that long.
Days unfolded with the eastern seaboard locked down from Georgia to New
Jersey with a VERY slow moving storm system.
For us it was 48hrs of gale warnings, high flooding up to DC and grey
skies. We broke up our cabin fever with
trips ashore during lulls in the weather and a few boat projects. Cooking filled up some time, too, with the
Smithfield ham doing double duty for breakfast stuffed crescent rolls and Colonel
Ladies Ham for dinner (recipe below).

Top
deck full enclosure bungee tie downs have been working hard but need to be
replaced with so much use. Being so
buttoned up also encouraged us to clean the clear vinyl windows…all the better
to watch the squabbling bald eagles and ospreys - our own Mutual of Omaha’s
Wild Kingdom (5/7). Courtney’s
restaurant is still around and made for a fun field trip (5/8). It is still a staff of three (chef Mom,
waterman Dad and everything else daughter) with amazing seafood caught a
stone’s throw away alongside hushpuppies to die for.

Winds
continued to howl outside our creek with a small craft advisory added to the
mix. We are day #5 at anchor and getting
fidgety here at the “end of the earth” (aka the southernmost tip of
Maryland). The afternoon shows a glimmer
of lightening up…should we go?! There is
a clear weather line with calmer weather if we can get just a little bit further
north. We hailed a boat out on the bay
and it sounds better to wait (5/11).
Okay, pivot and head ashore between the raindrops for dinner at Pier 450. It’s a swanky addition to this remote area
described as, “a recently refurbished 1940s-era fishing camp…a beach chic
hospitality destination. (https://pier450.com/). This place will be a blast as soon as the sun
appears with lively murals, firepits on the sand, blooming flowers and a hip
bar and restaurant.

Our
luck is changing – Exhibit A: no morning generator to warm things up
(5/12). We dropped our trash at the boat
ramp and chatted with oystermen who said they caught no fish out at the point
on a lumpy Chesapeake Bay morning and will stick with oyster harvesting in the
creek. Luckily, conditions lightened in
the afternoon as we poked our nose out of the creek and headed around the
corner of Point Lookout to anchor at Mill Creek in the Solomons. Point Lookout is now a serene park but has a
grim history as a POW camp which held 52,264 Confederate soldiers during the
Civil War. There was an 8% death rate as
soldiers were housed in tents in an area originally intended to hold a mere
10,000. Out past the Point Lookout Light
and we were back on the Chesapeake. Pelicans
swooped and we came to a stop just a bit further north. Phew - the rain started just as the hook went
down. Life is good and we are again on
our way.

Decisions,
decisions…will we stop in Annapolis or continue straight to Baltimore on this
rainy, foggy Friday morning? Forecasts
show thick fog all day on Saturday and Sunday which doesn’t sound good on this
busy shipping channel with massive cargo ships headed to Baltimore or
Philadelphia. So, we skipped Annapolis
this time and headed for Baltimore (5/13).
Weaving through a dozen tankers at anchor below the Bay Bridge awaiting
their slot to offload was much easier with clear conditions. And just like that we were tied up at
Anchorage Marina, our home for about a month.
After tying up with friendly dock master Wayne and his staff of Chauncy
and Jeanyay we caught up on cruiser chatter.
It seems the fallout from days of wind and rain storms has wreaked havoc
on the waterways: going aground in Currituck Sound and having to return to
Coinjock, the Alligator Swing Bridge not opening due to such severe conditions
and on and on. We are glad to be here –
welcome to Baw’mer, hon!

Morning
dawned with thick fog as expected which made us happy that we pushed on further
yesterday (5/14). This weather really is
crackers! No worries – we have Baltimore
to explore…the neighborhood of Canton is steps from the marina, Fell’s Point
just a bit beyond that and all things in between and beyond. Donuts and coffee started the day in the
Cruisers Lounge followed by laundry, a Farmer’s Market and just walking
around. Sheesh – you are nothing if you
haven’t slapped a crab on it?!

Time
at the dock means an endless supply of water.
And boy is Barefeet in need of an exterior wash...check out the
waterline before with Chesapeake mustache and after clean as a whistle. After fueling up with breakfast at Sip &
Bite Diner (c. 1948) we tackled the job together. We were pooped at the end…but…she sparkles like
crazy (5/15). From the water line to the
sides to the roof to the stainless. Wow! Boat work one day led to city exploration the
next with a visit to the George Peabody Library (5/16). It is called the Cathedral of Books and is considered
to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. We walked in and were stopped in our tracks. It is stunning! The smell of books, wooden card catalogs,
glowing lamps and even fresh cut flowers.
A delay in the library’s construction due to the Civil War was put to
good use by the library’s first librarian, John Morris, who studied and
catalogued the collections of the greatest libraries in the U.S. and Europe then
created a list of 50,000 books and actively pursued their retrieval regardless
of difficulty or expense. This strategy well
achieved George Peabody’s goal to create a library "for the free use of
all persons who desire to consult it."

Our
year-long schedule for the Great Loop keeps us away from friends and family. In order to get a small Boston fix we
returned for two weeks via train (5/17).
We settled in for the 7.5hr ride on the Northeast Regional and clickety
clackety along the eastern seaboard we went.
Our arrival at South Station had us hitting the ground running with an
easy walk back to our home-on-dirt. It
was a lightening fast visit that gave us a chance to visit friends, make dental
appointments, help Chris’ folks get their place in Rhode Island set for the
summer, deliver a sofa for upholstery and cook bigger meals in our non-boat
kitchen…creamy chocolate pudding was a particular favorite (recipe below). We filled up our friendship tank and were back
on the (slightly faster 6hr10min) Acela train returning to Barefeet in
Baltimore (6/2). Overhearing several train
conversations many folks were on the train after arriving in Boston from Europe
only to find their connecting flights canceled and unable to continue. So, they pivoted and jumped on the train
(some even without luggage that was misplaced by the airlines). It looks like there is still lots of travel
shucking and jiving. We are glad we
started with the train this time around.
Back to Anchorage Marina and Barefeet was still floating. We are ready to pick up where we left off and
gat back to cruising again.
Colonel
Ladies Ham
(Peg Bracken – I Hate to Cook Cookbook) serves 2
1/2lb
cooked ham, cut into cubes
2
Tablespoons butter
½
cup onions, chopped
1.5
cups rice
2
tsp flour
1
cup sour cream
6oz
mushrooms (or peas)
·
Start
cooking the rice.
·
Melt
butter and saute onions (and mushrooms if using) until tender. Add ham.
·
Lower
heat and sprinkle flour over and stir it in.
Gradually add sour cream (and peas if using). Slowly stir and thicken.
·
Spoon
ham mixture over rice. That’s it!
Creamy
Chocolate Pudding
(Cook's Illustrated)
2 teaspoons
vanilla extract
1⁄2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons
dutch process cocoa
2 tablespoons
cornstarch
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 cup heavy cream
3 egg
yolks
2 1⁄2 cups whole milk
5 tablespoons
unsalted butter, chopped
into 5 pieces
4 ounces
bittersweet chocolate,
finely chopped (60% cocoa)
·
In
a large saucepan, whisk sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt until combined.
·
Whisk
in heavy cream, egg yolks and whole milk over medium to medium-high heat. Bring
to a strong SIMMER (should take five minutes) and let simmer for 30 seconds.
·
Add
in butter and finely chopped chocolate.
·
Stir
in vanilla and incorporate.
·
Pour
into individual ramekins or bowls, or into a large bowl.
·
Cover
surface with wax paper or parchment sprayed with Pam to prevent a skin from
forming on the top of the pudding.
·
Chill
for at least four hours.
·
Whisk
pudding before serving.