From
the ICW to the Gulf Stream and Arrival in Great Harbour Cay: January 31 2020
We
stayed tucked into the northern section of the Lake Worth anchorage as strong
northern winds passed through the area. Our
dance card stars aligned which meant we got to see Rich and Jodi again – and we
met Dasher. This was our first cruiser
experience this season of dinghy-ing ashore, locking to the metal grate under a
bridge and returning after dark: flashlights – check, handheld radio – check,
phone to call uber – check. All went
smoothly and it is nice to dust off the cruiser cobwebs (1/21).
Weather
reports have started to show a possible crossing to the Bahamas in four
days. We are not holding our breath but
with that in mind we will move south toward Miami where the crossing conditions
should be better on the southern (Miami) route rather than on the northern (Lake
Worth) route. Pulling up the anchor was
cold work with socks, sneakers, pants, fleece and jacket (1/22). At 41 degrees F these northern winds were not
messing around. Our 30-mile hop to
anchor in Lake Boca and the early arrival of our dinghy tri-color light has us
on schedule. We rented a car and made
the 45 minute drive north to Boat Owners Warehouse in Riviera Beach. It was a full day of boat moving and boat
part retrieval but we were back aboard before sunset in time to cook up
blackened chicken on the grill with Greek salad and baked potato (recipe below). All systems are working – even the portable
propane grill. Yippee!
Our
ICW amble south continued with a 28-mile move from Lake Boca to North Lake near
Hollywood Beach (1/23). This section of
the ICW has a density of bridges that even we need to have opened (our height
is 20’7”). It takes longer to make
similar distances as we time bridge arrivals for their respective openings;
hour and half hour, quarter past and quarter of, every twenty minutes, etc. However, the slower speed gives us a chance
to check out the homes that line the waterway.
There does not seem to be any single architectural style…other than
massive starter castles. Instead, the
homes are as different from one to the next as simply reaching into a grab bag
of architectural styles and building the style you draw: sleek, fun, French chateaux,
modern, island, Italian villa – you name it.
We generally like the fun homes.
Our relaxed motor was briefly interrupted by the hurly burly that is
Fort Lauderdale where boats of all sorts zip around to create a frenetic Times
Square of NYC on the water; motor boats, sailboats, commercial tugs/barges,
water taxis, mega yachts and on and on.
The
North Lake anchorage is a favorite of ours because we can dinghy to Jimbo’s for
tuna nachos while watching boats pass on the waterway and under the Dania Beach
Boulevard bridge. If the current is
running the bridge area gets quite exciting as boats maneuver through and/or
hold in place for the bridge to open and allow them to pass. On the way to Jimbo’s we noticed shiny, new
docks at the West Lake Park Nature Center so we stopped to stretch our
legs. Boardwalk trails meandered through
mangroves with shrimp clicking in the mud and crabs scuttling away when we got too
close. Jimbo’s did not disappoint but
the dinghy ride home had us soaked to the bone due to constant rain showers. Oh well - fresh water beats salt water every
time.
Our
weather window is still intact which has us making our final hop to stage at
the Miami Stadium anchorage before crossing to the Bahamas tomorrow. There is definitely Superbowl hoopla in the
air as well as stapled to every building and bench that doesn’t move. Our last day was warm and beautiful filled
with last minute tasks like a load of laundry and policing stray items that
could shift while underway (1/24). One
last look at weather conditions shows a slight shift in the best time to cross
the Gulf Stream which has us moving up our departure time. As you have read in previous logs we avoid
entering or exiting a harbor in the dark…EVER.
Well, rules have an exception and this weather/distance scenario is an
exception for us. We went to bed after a
dinner of BLT sandwiches at 5pm and rested until 11.15pm.
The
alarm went off and we hoisted the anchor at 11.30pm (1/24). Thankfully, Miami has tons of ambient light
which…sort of…reduced our anxiety about moving around a harbor in the
dark. It was a moonless, dark night and
by the time the sun came up we were comfortably across the Gulf Stream and onto
the Bahama Banks (1/25). Conditions continued
calm and mild which meant dropped eggs on toast for us for breakfast. We settled in for eleven more hours with no
land in sight and rarely a boat spotted.
Barefeet’s auto pilot did the hard work so we hardly worked. After 17 hours and 130 miles we anchored in
Great Harbour Cay in the Berry Island (north of Nassau). It feels great to be across! The sun went down and the sky was electrified
with stars which was magical. We slept
solidly and enjoyed a golden sunrise for our first morning in the Bahamas.
Back
in Florida we had made a reservation at the Great Harbour Cay Marina in order
to check into the country and to be in a protected spot for a few days. Up anchor and in we went to easily tie up on
the calm morning (1/26). This is a first
time to the Berry Islands for us...well, except for Chris who was at the Great
Harbour Cay Resort and Marina when he was 7 years old…and Joe Namath fixed his
fishing rod. What?! Chris fondly remembers being given a shark by
local fishermen (which he proudly trotted back to the condo), catching fish
with local kids whose mother fried it up for them and eating the most amazing
cream of wheat for breakfast at the Club House.
The Club went bankrupt in the 1970’s with many buildings falling to
ruins today. Sadly, it’s an all too
common refrain in the Bahamas – the place where dreams go to die. Chris has weathered the years better than the
Club House but the condo still remains functional. And, strangely, nine holes of the golf course
are still mowed (course designed by famed golf course designer Joe Lee);
however, a tee would likely be needed for every swing due to a thick cover of
clover. It was quite a blast from the
past for Chris as we wandered around the grounds and down to the beach.
Great
Harbour Cay is the major island in the chain of Berry Islands at 7.5 miles long
and 2.5 miles wide with a population of 353 (2010 census). Bullock’s Harbour is the largest settlement
in the Berry Islands located about 1.5 miles from the marina. Sounds like a good walk for us to explore a
bit more (1/27). And maybe find a bar
with a TV for catching the Superbowl?! Trade
winds are currently blowing in reverse which really has us scratching our heads
about our departure date and direction.
It was a quick stroll through town and a TV is an option at Hammerheads
Bar. Now, it’s time to get cooking for
the marina pot luck. We brought the
crowd pleaser sausage, cheese and chile dip with tortilla chips. The table groaned with options like
jambalaya, chicken souse, crab cakes, pizza, spaghetti and orzo salad. Stomachs were filled, tall tales were told
and new cruisers were met.
The
fresh water pump has been making some funky sounds lately so Chris has swapped
out the pump and the filter but still the moans and groans persist. Everything functions but we’ll keep noodling
it. Nothing more for now. So, 1) the marina has bikes that we can
borrow and 2) low tide was in the afternoon. Sounds like a great
combination for seeing Shark Creek at low tide and walking on the exposed sand
flats (1/28). Off we went to get the bikes - what?! Gulp.
There was only one bike and two of us. Hhhmmm. Well, as you know, Chris
is always the clever thinker. I sat on the seat in the back and he
pedaled and steered in the front. His heels banged into the rusty struts
periodically and my legs flailed out sideways but I never lost a flip flop and
neither of us lost any skin. When we came to a hill we stopped and
devised a plan - always stop to dismount on the left, always on the left.
I am sure we created amusement for anyone who saw us wobbling our way down the
road but we made it to Shark Creek and it was beautiful. Okay, and a bit creepy, too. There is a quick, deep drop in depth from the
sand flats to where darker water flows which conjures images of what might lurk
below – sharks, eagle rays, turtles.
This southern tip of the island supposedly had a visit from a great
hammerhead who was caught and tagged at more than 20 feet long in 1992. Happily, he has not been seen since.
Chatting
with cruisers we learned about taking the dinghy through narrow mangrove alleys
to open into the backside of Shark Creek and several offshoot creeks. The only trick is that you MUST go at high
tide. Lucky for us high tide is at 11am
so off we went following s/v Stephanie Dawn to the entrance (1/29). Wow!
The mangrove alleys are super narrow and the water is super skinny. But the water clarity is crystal clear which
makes it easy to spot fish and rays.
Heading through the alleys we were nudged to get moving to the good part
by our navigators. And they were
right. It got better and better the
further in we went. Once in Shark Creek
we veered off to Turtle Creek. Holy
terrapin! It was jam packed with
skittering turtles. At least three within
eyesight in any direction we looked. Alternating
patches of sand and grass make a polka dot or cheetah print design on the water
color from the floor below. We daudled
as long as we thought we could without losing the tide for our exit. Very cool!
Time
to give Barefeet a good cleaning (1/29).
Non-potable fresh water is free at the marina which is fabulous (and
does not break the bank). We tag teamed
the job from top to bottom with soap scrubbing, rinsing, stainless, sides,
decks. She is sparkling! Tonight was pizza night at the marina so we
got our order into the queue by Noon for evening delivery. We went for half BBQ chicken and half
pepperoni. They are $30 each but what a
fun evening it was. Pizzas start being delivered
at 5pm so everyone is hanging around the docks with cocktails. As the pizzas arrive the pizzas are taken
over to the gazebo to eat. We were at
the end of the pack but it’s island time.
The pizzas were piping hot and gooey and flavorful.
Back
to the fresh water pump. At the end of
last season Chris rearranged some elements of the fresh water pump system in
the hopes of gaining a few more inches of open space in the engine room and
having better access for servicing. The
pump is working but it is bellowing and vibrating in fits and starts while also
losing its prime. The bottom line
appears to be that the filter housing is on the suction side of the system
which keeps also suctioning the vent open and allowing air into the
system. So, Chris moved the pump so that
it is upstream of the filter housing. A
metal backing was installed for rigidity and connections were undone, old Teflon
tape removed, new tape wrapped…and the system tested for leaks. Once, twice…gggrrr. Third time was the charm. We’ll let things settle and take another look
tomorrow.
While
the water pump settles we went fishing (1/31).
Yes, us…fishing. Stop
smirking. Winds are supposed to pick up
in the next couple of days so today is the day.
Our neighbor on m/v Ursa Minor suggested the wreck located across from
the entrance to Shark Creek. Got it. And our other neighbor on m/v Valkyrie
suggested swivel spoons. Got it. Conditions were perfect. We anchored close to the wreck…ha...close enough
to see the aquarium of fish in its shadow. We had a few inquiries and a couple of nibbles but no catches. Chris bought me a new underwater camera for
Christmas and this was a great test. The last underwater camera died after over fifeteen years of service. Water is going to be even more fun! On the
way home we trolled a line in order to extend our time on the picture post card
day.
Our
current plan is to stay at Great Harbour Cay through the Superbowl. When winds die down on Monday (2/3) we will move to another
anchorage in the Berrys then likely jump to Eleuthera for some protection from more
winds before continuing south.
Blackened
Seasoning
(crewman Pete Puentes, Key West Commercial Fisherman’s Cookbook)
1
Tablespoon paprika
4
teaspoons dried thyme
2
teaspoons onion powder
2
teaspoons garlic powder
1
Tablespoon sugar
2
teaspoons salt
1.5
teaspoons black pepper
1
teaspoon cayenne
1
teaspoon dried oregano
1/2
teaspoon ground nutmeg
¾
teaspoon ground cumin
Mix
all together. Good on sautéed veggies
(onion, bell peppers, etc.), chicken, pork or fish. For fish – melt butter, coat fish and dredge
fish in seasoning. Cook in hot skillet.
Sausage,
Cheese and Chile Dip
(by James Villas, Crazy for Casseroles)
¾
lb bulk sausage (or cubed steak)
8oz
cream cheese, room temperature
7oz
Rotel tomatoes and chiles, drained
¼
lb cheddar cheese, grated
Chopped
cilantro to garnish after removed from oven
Tortilla
chips to dip
1)
Fry
sausage over medium heat, breaking up with a fork until well cooked. Drain on paper towels.
2)
Preheat
oven to 350 degrees F. Grease 11/2 quart
casserole dish.
3)
Combine
sausage, cream cheese, Rotel and 75% of cheese.
4)
Scrape
into casserole dish. Sprinkle remaining
25% of cheese on top.
5)
Bake
approx. 15 minutes until browned.
Sprinkle cilantro on top.
6)
Serve
hot with tortilla chips.