We
are in Eleuthera and it is fun to see a new place (1/7). The winds and timing have never been right
for us to visit this island during our previous four Bahamas visits and we are
excited to be here now. The main island
is long and skinny at 110 miles long and generally not more than one mile wide…with
additional chains of much smaller islands to the north and to the south. Population is scattered across the islands and
totals roughly 11,000 people (a bit larger than the seating capacity of a large
US high school gym). We took it easy
today in the calm and peaceful anchorage of Royal Island harbor – no services
ashore except for support items for a resort around the corner doesn’t bother
us at all – love the quiet (https://www.cuvee.com/villas/bahamas-private-island-rentals/). We renewed boat registration online, cleaned
the sight tube in the fresh water tank, did a bit of interior boat cleaning and
mounted the boat specifications plaque I had created by etsy.com. A bit of social sundowner fun with s/v Sea Duction resulted in nixing
the burgers and instead sticking with simply the roasted potatoes with garlic, lemon
and oregano for dinner (recipe below).
We took the potatoes to the top deck and marveled at the amazing amount
of stars. Holy cow – is that the
Southern Cross just peeking out on the horizon?! We will have to keep an eye on that.
We
move through Eleuthera with lots of great tips via the cruiser coconut
telegraph (thanks, Bill and Louise of s/v Andelen – it’s like you are anchoring
with us). Up anchor from Royal Island and we continued
south through the Current Cut (1/8). The
channel is wide enough and deep enough but the current can flow like a river (some
say up to 9 knots). This means that we
wanted to be passing west to east through the three-mile cut 1.5hrs after the
high tide in Nassau in order to get slack type water current. We saw an additional 1.5 knots of speed with
us which means we got the timing we wanted - nice. This cut is a popular dive spot for a fast
moving drift dive between rock walls loaded with critters; stingrays, sharks,
and reef fish…we’ll keep this in mind for another time (https://www.discover-eleuthera-bahamas.com/current-cut.html).
Half-way
to our anchorage for the night we made a quick sight-seeing stop at the Glass
Window. The anchorage has 9ft depth over
pristine sand surrounded by island pines.
It would be nice to stay the night but winds are expected to shift which
will make it a pretty uncomfortable spot - just a pit stop this time.
The Glass Window is a phrase that describes a geological formation of a
3 foot-ish spot of land that divides the shallow banks from the deep ocean.
Technically, all of Eleuthera creates the wall but at this point it is at its most narrow. We headed ashore with s/v Sea Duction to
check it out in person as well as to visit the Queen’s Bath.
Standing
at the point where the small strip of land divides the waters makes it pretty
clear how different the waters are; one is the shallow, calm and turquoise
Great Bahama Bank while the other is the deep blue and raucous Atlantic Ocean. Nature is pretty cool! The bridge connects the north and the south
of Eleuthera which is a big deal. In
1991 a rogue wave shifted the bridge 7 feet during the same storm system that
ravaged the North Atlantic…and created the “perfect storm” (inspiring the movie
of the same name). Next stop – the
Queen’s Bath. We followed the coast and
a cove opened up full of various levels of stone pools – thanks for the tip
Jessica. Wow – the colors are like
kool-aid?! After a bit of a dip we four walked
out and found that there is a sign that marks the spot on the Queen’s
Highway…hhhmmm…well, we liked our bush-whacking route better.
Back
aboard our vessels and we continued to Hatchet Bay – a protected spot with a
TINY keyhole entrance. There are no
depth issues but the entrance is definitely quirky…and not seen until you are
literally AT the entrance. Nachos for
dinner and a boat count of eleven tells us that many cruisers have the same
idea as we do to move in the calm weather conditions. And the stars?! It is hard to sleep during such an amazing
and glittering display.
James
Cistern was a sleepy settlement along the beach with a comfortable vibe and a
few open-air beach huts. We have heard
that ladies often barbecue chicken on the beach. Although today was not one of those days we
can certainly see why they are drawn to the setting. The road continued with ocean views and
whispy pines (casuarinas). However,
behind the pines Governor’s Harbour soon spread out with a decidedly different
vibe. Victorian era structures dot the
hills that extend above the shore.
European settlers arrived in 1648 in the form of English Puritans
(Eleutheran Adventurers) who attempted to create the first democracy in the
Western Hemisphere (130 years before the American revolution). Unfortunately, settlement proved too
difficult, numbers dwindled and only a few remained.
With
stomachs growling we headed to the Buccaneer Club for some breakfast. The tranquil spot was a great stop; poached
eggs, toast and sausage for Chris and Bahamian boiled fish for me accompanied
by steaming mugs of hot coffee. Don’t
wrinkle your nose – I like the savory and enjoy mixing it up. The boiled fish was quite tasty despite its
simplicity – fish broth (flavored with a bit of salt, pepper, cloves, garlic
and celery), soft pieces of fish, thinly sliced potatoes and plenty of lime
juice for a spark. The Buccaneer Club
has a tree shaded patio, muraled bar, lodging and the ability to arrange any
sort of water sport. This makes it a
friendly one-stop-shop for vacationers (https://www.hwadventures.com/menus?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=tripadvisor). Continuing south through Tarpum Bay we hit
our turn around spot of Rock Sound.
Yippee – and the holy grail for the football game – a beachside
restaurant with a dinghy dock, anchorage just a stone’s throw away AND the NFL
package on three TVs. We’ll be back to Frigates Bar and Grill on Sunday (https://www.frigatesbarandgrill.com/).
Back
we went to Hatchet Bay after a really fun road trip spanning 8.5hrs and 86 land
miles. Eleuthera has a laid back and
friendly feel everywhere we went. We
dropped off the car, retrieved our deposit and capped off the day with a burger
and fries at Twin Brothers’ outdoor bar (http://www.twinbrothersbahamas.com/default.aspx). And, of course, a world famous daiquiri –
strawberry and pina colada swirled with a coconut rum floater. Oh la la!
It was a leisurely stroll back to the dinghy dock and it looks like more cruisers are taking advantage
of the good travel weather because the bay anchor count is up to nineteen. But we aren’t done with the island yet. Tomorrow we head to Rock Sound.
Our
5hr motor from Hatchet Bay was a real beauty with clear, pale blue skies; deep
blue ocean; sunshine sparkling on the water and light winds (1/11). We
even had a couple of dolphin drop by for a bit.
Plus, we made water and Chris whipped up some pizza dough for dinner (recipe below). We anchored in
Rock Sound just off of Frigates Bar...yes...the place with TVs for the sports games. Now, we are at the southernmost spot to jump
off to the Exumas when the weather is right.
For now, we’ll stay here for a few days.
Stores
will be closed tomorrow (Sunday) so we headed into town for just a few things
at the supermarket (tortillas and peanut M&Ms), liquor store (coconut rum)
and hardware store (propane bottle for the grill). All are a short walk from each other so the
process is easy in Rock Sound. We were
done with errands and back at Frigates for lunch and the Duke basketball game
(1/12). It was just us and bartender Nathan
which made for nice conversation. And
what is that I hear?! Nathan had the answer so I was off to find the Junkanoo
band practicing over at the Ocean Hole for a competition tonight in
Governor’s Harbour. Very cool to hear the band and glad to see the Ocean Hole, too (completely
landlocked tidal lake rumored to be bottomless…and with healing powers). Good luck at the competition! I arrived back at Frigates just before tip
off and Chris filled me in on all that he learned from Nathan…including…that
Bahamians indeed love their rum drinks; just enough juice to change the color,
please (tee, hee, hee).
3lbs potatoes, peeled and cut into 1.5" cubes
1/2 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1.5 teaspoons dried oregano
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
ground black pepper
1/2 cup beef or chicken stock
option garnish: 2-3 T. fresh oregano and/or feta
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Place potatoes in a single layer 13x9 baking dish. Pour oil over
them. Add garlic, oregano, salt and pepper (to taste). Toss well to
coat.
Bake 15 min. Add stock; toss; bake 10 min. Add lemon juice; toss;
bake 15 min. or until cooked through.
If you like broil for a few minutes until golden brown.
Sprinkle with fresh oregano and or feta as desired. Serve at once.
Chris’
Pizza Dough
1
cup water
1
package yeast
2
¼ cups flour (more as needed to create a dry dough)
2
Tablespoons olive oil
1
teaspoon salt
Mix
all ingredients until dough ball forms and it’s no longer sticking to the sides
of the mixing bowl. Separate into two
quart-sized ziplock baggies coated inside with olive oil. Place dough in baggies and let rise on the
counter for a couple of hours. Punch
down and put in the fridge until ready to use (elasticity is best within three
days).
We
like to spread olive oil in a rimmed cookie sheet then evenly sprinkle a bit of
cornmeal and salt. Stretch dough to fit
pan. Top with whatever toppings you like. Bake at 450 degrees F for 25 minutes (or as
high as it goes – at home we do 525 degrees F).
On the boat we fry the bottom of the cookie sheet over the stove burners
for two minutes before baking in order to help the crispy-ness along.