The
Chillin’ Boat: February 21 2017
There
is some clocking wind approaching that means we need a place to hide and we
have a vague plan…let’s head north and re-start our Exuma chain
exploration. We rushed to Staniel Cay
from Florida so this will give us a chance to visit some new places that we
sped past last week. It is not usual for
us to go “backwards” but we have oodles of time and there are 365 islands
(cays) in the Exuma chain. We pulled up
the anchor at Big Majors Spot for a quick two hour hop to Cambridge Cay/Little
Bell Island (2/8). This is a new spot to
us and it is stunning! It is part of the
Exuma Land & Sea Park so moorings are available but we found a nice anchor
spot and settled in. It was still early
so we headed over to snorkel the aquarium – packed with coral and fish. Wow!
The staghorn coral is massive.
And the surging water has some of the coral breaking the surface like
fingers waving from below…kinda creepy.
Back
to the big boat and we met our neighbor who mentioned he would soon be calling
his Mother. Hey – sure enough, there he
is up the mast making a phone call – clever cruiser to get strong reception in
this remote location.
Our
calm anchor spot was a perfect platform for Chris to swap out the fresh water
pump. Not sure exactly what is going on
but the volume of water is less strong than it used to be. Out with the old, in with the new…but the
flow rate has not improved. Could the
house water filter be clogged? But it
was changed three weeks ago…hhhmmm…seems too soon. Yep, that was it. Our jostling around must have stirred up
stuff in the tank and clogged the filter.
Okay, mystery solved but now the “new” water pump needs to be returned
back into it’s box and the (well functioning) old water pump needs to be put back
into service. But get crackin’ because
there will be sundowners on the beach.
Chris scampered to get the project done and tools policed while I
organized our cocktails and an appetizer platter of cheese, crackers and a jar
of my homemade bread & butter pickles.
Our water pump story was fun fodder on the beach with Chris now being
called “water pump.” However, most folks
soon shared similar stories and some have even resorted to writing on blue tape
– check filter – pasted on pumps because they have done the same thing so many
times. It was all good fun on the beach but
the bugs were herding us deeper into the water and we all finally had enough
bites and called it a night.
The
winds remain in the forecast so we decided to keep going north to Highbourne
Cay Marina while the cold front passes (http://highbournecaybahamas.com/). Highbourne is a mere 35 miles southeast of
Nassau which will place us well north to re-start our exploring when the winds
pass. We tied up at the fixed dock and I
slowly made some dinner to have ready in the wings whenever we wanted it
(2/9). It is chilled gazpacho blanco and
torta di riso (recipes below) – perfect for a hot night after a stroll to the
fish cleaning station. Barefoot and
cocktails in hand we headed to see what the fishing was like today. Below the water was the usual population of
nurse sharks...and even a couple new faces - bull sharks – all ready for any
and all scraps. As you can see - these guys on a big boat/sport fish
combo had a good day; mahi, wahoo and several lobsters. And it was our
lucky day, too. Because they gave us a jumbo slice of wahoo the diameter of a
basketball. Grillin' for dinner tomorrow!!
Highbourne
Cay is a repeat visit for us and a lovely excuse to visit when the strong winds
blow. The island is 3 miles long and not
much more than a marina, a restaurant and a handful of well-appointed vacation
cottages (aka houses). Golf carts are
the sole mode of vehicle transport. The
wooden docks are smooth from use and dotted with gazebos tacked with boat names
and sayings from those who have passed through…all made with driftwood and
shells and paint. We walked over to the
white sand beach finding small treasures of our own and enjoying the warm sea
breeze. I think we are finally the
chillin’ boat as we were described by our Hawaiian boat painter in Fort Lauderdale. Tonight, we grilled up half of the wahoo with
blackened seasoning and shared it with boat neighbors. It was delicious!
Very
light winds greeted us in the morning and delayed our departure as we gawked at
the water after the wind ripples were quieted and removed. A black stingray ambled by clear as a bell fifteen
feet below the surface. Alright, it’s
time and off we went to Little Farmer’s Cay (2/14). We exited through Conch Cut into Exuma Sound
with wonderful, calm conditions and returned inside to Farmer’s Cay Bank. Winds are again passing through and we should
have some protection in this area between the islands. Rather than anchor we took a mooring ball
because the current rips and rages through here then reverses. Eegads – I heaved and wrestled to attach our
line to the ball as Chris worked to hold the boat steady in the current. Mission accomplished but I have a few more
bruises to add to my collection of “boat bites.” It seems the mooring balls are made extra big
and beefy so that zooming motor boats do not snap them off. We checked in with Roosevelt Nixon and stretched
our legs into town. The island is only
about 1.5 miles so the walk will be gentle.
It’s Valentine’s Day so we wandered into Ty’s Sunset Bar and Grill for a
drink and some french fries…but don’t look for a sign because it blew away in
the last hurricane (http://www.tyssunsetbarandgrill.com/). Bartender, Coach, was as welcoming as could
be and filled us in about the island…and that everyone is still recovering from
the annual First Friday in February Festival.
During the Festival the island population of 55 swells into the several hundreds.
We
dinghied around into town looking for a tomato for our Greek salad for dinner –
no luck and the mail boat is not expected until tomorrow night. Oh well, no worries. On our way out of the harbor we spotted Coach
and mentioned our tomato search. He
reached into the conch salad station and handed us one – free. Oh my, that is one of the kindest things ever
done for us – thank you. Our salad was
perfect and we toasted Coach before digging into our grilled steaks.
The
mooring balls and few dock slips filled up due to the forecasted winds (2/15). And it’s our friends from Cambridge Cay –
small world. We reconnected and helped
with mooring ball pick-up and slip entry agreeing to meet at Ty’s for
sundowners. Then we were off back to the
town harbor where turtles thrive and frolic.
Dylan feeds them and they are happy to say hello. Bits of conch are cut off of a frozen lump of
conch but all that is needed for the dinner bell is a few bangs on the wooden
table and turtles come running for a snack.
The day passed uneventfully.
Before long it was time to head to Ty’s.
We packed up oatmeal chocolate chip cookies as a thank you for the
tomato from the day before and we were off.
It’s a short walk from the Yacht Club to Ty’s but it involves walking
the length of the island’s sole runway.
No need to worry because it is easy to spot an arriving or departing
plane. We gathered around the deck as
the sun sank into the ocean with rum punch, kalik beer and fried conch.
Gazpacho
Blanco
(serves 2-3) from Great Exuma, Great Food Cookbook
1
cucumber; peeled, seeded and cut into chunks
½
cup chicken broth
½
cup sour cream (or yogurt)
1
clove garlic, minced
2-3
teaspoons wine vinegar (or apple cider vinegar)
Salt
to taste
Garnish
– chopped tomatoes and onions
Place
all ingredients into a blender. Blend
and chill. Pour into bowls and garnish
with chopped tomatoes and onions.
Torta
di Riso
(serves 6-8) from Sasha Martin, Life from Scratch
6
slices bacon, chopped
1
Tablespoon olive oil, plus more for baking dish
1
onion, chopped
3
cups leftover, refrigerated rice
½
cup Parmesan cheese, grated
6
eggs lightly beaten
A
little parsley, chopped (or dried oregano…no fresh herbs aboard Barefeet at the
moment)
Salt
and pepper
Preheat
oven to 400 degrees F.
Saute
bacon in olive oil over medium heat until fat begins to render. Add onion and lightly brown. Set aside to cool slightly. Meanwhile, add cooked rice, Parmesan, eggs,
chopped parsley, salt and pepper to large bowl.
Stir together with cooled bacon and onions. Pour into slightly oiled 8x8/2 quart baking
dish. Bake about 35 minutes or until
golden brown. Cool 15 minutes before
cutting into squares. Excellent served
room temperature or cold.