Poised
for a departure always has us filled with a mix of emotions ranging from angst
to excitement: hurry – we have to see everything before we leave; can we do it
– the ocean is a big, tempestuous thing and we have been at a dock…maybe we
don’t have “it” anymore; provisioning – are we sure we have enough; friends –
we have made new friends and now we are leaving; excitement – we are off to see
something new. These and many more
emotions swirl as we await an imminent departure…whether it’s the 3,000 mile crossing
of the Pacific or a 65 mile hop to Cape Sable.
We keep to our routine as best we can and monitor the weather for any
changes.
Mother
Nature kept to her forecast and we departed Key West at first light on February
16. Our patience to wait out the bad
weather was rewarded with a beautiful, calm day of cruising. Bonus - to start we had a passing rain storm provide
a much needed fresh water rinse.
Throughout the day we spotted dolphin playing in the bow, pelicans
soaring overhead and turtles calmly bobbing at the surface (until they spotted
us and then immediately sped below the surface).
It was a solid ten hour day of travel that had us dropping the hook at
Cape Sable at 5pm…just in time for sundowners.
We were the only boat in the anchorage – who knew Florida could be so
remote?!
We were lucky
enough to have calm conditions which meant that we could dinghy ashore for what is
touted to be an AMAZING shelling beach. I
took a shopping bag just in case the rumors were true. Wow – we were not disappointed! It was awesome. Tons of angel wings, stiff pen shells,
scallops, whelks, small conchs…and even an Atlantic giant cockle (with both
sides still connected). Scattered
between the shells were bits of what initially looked like coral but upon
closer investigation were actually sponges.
Maybe they eventually harden to a coral state but certainly not when we
saw them. We were discerning about
exactly which shells we kept but still managed to fill a gallon ziplock with shells. This took some time but we had nothing else
on our dance card. However, Mother
Nature called and I ducked behind a “bush.”
Sadly, it was just inland enough that in the short time I was
squatting…I got bitten on both north and south cheeks by diligent mosquitos on
patrol. A quick return to the water’s
edge had me back beyond their reach.
It
has been a wonderful two nights in a remote spot but the ocean roll is building
which makes the anchorage more rolly than we like. So off we went for the 10,000 Islands in the
Everglades National Park. The day
started with a bumpy sea but smoothed out about half-way along. This trip has us changing water masses –
exiting the Florida Bay and entering the Gulf of Mexico…a first visit for us.
Our
anchorage was in Russell Pass at Indian Key (2/18). It’s a nicely protected spot between various
mangrove islets. The islets/islands are
not much more than high spots in the coastline or produced by mangroves growing
on oyster bars…and they number in the hundreds (not the thousands). Almost all of the islands are uninhabited
which creates a feeling of remoteness…and amazing star gazing. We settled into the tranquil spot quite
quickly and even delayed our departure by one day so that we could keep
exploring.
Friends
Bill and Louise raved about Everglades City so that was our first day’s adventure
(2/19). We dinghied two miles to town…a
bit of wind against tide created more excitement (and wetness) than we liked
but our newly fixed outboard engine performed like a champ. Once to town we ambled along the sleepy
streets and the commercial fishing operations along the water. The town of 400 residents is neat as a pin
but not quite as active as it was when frequented by FDR, Truman and
Eisenhower. However, the Rod & Gun
Club is still around and a historic place for a beer on the porch where it is
not hard to imagine the times when this part of Florida was frequented not only
by Presidents but also rum-runners and murderers on the lam.
Just
not ready to leave this lovely spot we stayed another night in order to do a
bit of fishing and a bit of exploring in the mangrove alleys (2/20). We heeded the warning to bring a hand-held
GPS because it is easy to get turned around in the similar landscape of water
and mangroves. Chris was armed with both
fishing rods and I was armed with my camera.
We never saw more than a couple of boats. The calm lapping of water against the
mangroves and the gentle wind in the trees mesmerized us. We both gave the casting method of fishing a
try but it was a day of fishing…not catching.
Every so often we spotted a bird in flight or perched and ready to catch
his own dinner. The spoonbilled pink
fella looks a bit odd on the branch but was pretty cool in-flight (but I missed
that shot).
The
next morning we awoke to an amazingly calm day and decided it was time to move
along to Marco Island (2/21). Plus,
friends, Lisa and Dave, are anchored in Smokehouse Bay. They go back to our time in the Bahamas in
2007. We want to catch up with these
guys! It was a gentle ride and not too
far – we could spot the high rise condos behind the pelicans as we left Russell
Pass.
Smokehouse
Bay is an anchorage with an (almost) complete 12ft depth surrounded by canal
homes and a couple of restaurants (aka well protected on all sides). The tricky part is winding your way in from
the Gulf. We made it without bumping the
bottom but we did see 7ft (we draw 5.5ft).
Gosh, it is great to see old cruising friends! We swapped tips and ideas because they came
from the north and are headed to Key West…and we are headed north after being
in Key West. And of course we told lies
and had drinks and bits. One of our food contributions was Smilin’ Bob’s Smoked Fish Dip.
It’s a Key West staple that was introduced to us and, now, it's slowly
expanding further north (http://www.smilinbobs.com/). Give
it a try if you see it.
Marco
Island is an extended stay spot for us because we have friends coming aboard,
Jodi and Rich. They flew in from Boston
and it is a crazy, small world. Holy cow
– on the plane they sat next to a woman I worked for back-in-the-day just before
we left for our circumnavigation…in 2006.
Unbelievable. (Hi Penny - you were a wonderful leader and great boss)
Sunny,
pleasant days meant we could explore the area in any way. Marco Island is the largest of the 10,000
Islands at 24 square miles. We started
nearby with a walk along Tigertail Beach (2/23). It is 79 acres of white sand beaches, mangroves
and emerald waters on the Gulf of Mexico.
There were shells galore but most were inhabited so we let them be
(plus, there were signs which required it).
We enjoyed catching up as well as viewing a few bits of funky; like the
shell shrubs and the cow sand sculptures.
Back aboard for sundowners on the top deck and we realize that Marco
Island has plenty of its own rituals.
The place is not a disco/night club hot spot (9pm is said to be Marco
Island Midnight); however, they have fun.
We were chit chatting on the upper deck and slowly heard music getting louder and
louder…but where was it coming from?!
Oh, the Black Pearl pirate ship…of course. But that was not all. There
are a couple of low rise condo
complexes ashore with pools and lounge chairs and - like a biological,
internal clock – the area (previously abondonded due to the setting
sun) was again filled with people. This time they all joined
in the YMCA dance
as the Black Pearl blared the iconic Village People song. Have you seen the movie Cocoon?! We could not stop laughing but everyone was
having such a great time that we couldn’t help but join in with the deck dancers and got cheers of
our own…of course we know the moves (and so do you – don’t try to deny it). How to follow that?! The next song is always Sweet Caroline by Neil Diamond...of course it is.
Well,
that pretty much exhausts the attractions on Marco Island...and the food is, "fiercely mediocre," as Chris says. On the weather front - it is sunny but winds are
strong so we could not take the big boat to the Everglades. No problem – we went to the Everglade via
rental car (2/24). We started at the Museum
of the Everglades to get a bit of background (http://www.evergladesmuseum.org/home.aspx). However, the background is not too
overwhelming or dense. For example, one
of the exhibits is the spoon that served baked beans at a town picnic. No joke.
Once that was wrapped up we asked a museum volunteer (and life-long
resident) for a recommendation for a boat tour. Our first attempt struck out due to the high
wind situation but, luckily, the air boats are still operating. We jumped on a one-hour tour with Captain
Jack’s Airboat Tours (http://www.captainjacksairboattours.com/). This seemed a bit hokey but it was
awesome! We sped through mangrove
tunnels with Captain Mo and spotted many critters; a Mr and Mrs Gator (Mrs
Gator playing hard to get behind the mangroves), several different types of birds,
a family of raccoons. Wow! Back on shore we held an alligator and I gave
him a smooch. Chris passed on the smooch and simply
took the photo – chicken. Dark clouds
were gathering so we headed back to Barefeet.
The winds stayed up and rain came and went through the night but in the
morning we learned that 15 states experienced much worse – including tornadoes.
It
was Rich and Jodi’s last day (2/25). We
all have a soft spot in our hearts for The Mucky Duck on Captiva so off we went
(http://www.muckyduck.com/). Plus, it
gets us closer to the Fort Myers airport for their departure. The northern winds have made a dramatic drop
in the temperatures but the charm of this beach-y spot cannot be diminished. We lunched on pub grub and bought a few
souvenirs (to replenish shirts that have finally worn out over years of wearing). Final stop was the airport. So long guys – great to share our lifestyle
afloat with you. See ya next time!
We
were back to just the two of us. Winds
remain strong and chilly from the north so we will likely stay put until Monday
(2/29)…then move 42 miles north to Fort Myers. In
the meantime, we have done a few boat projects and Chris has proclaimed that we are now
officially in the realm of preventive maintenance. Yippee!
It has been a lot of work and bloody knuckles but the boat feels solid
and familiar. Two of the final projects
were tracking down the phantom 2amp draw and replacing a leaking sea strainer
(for the generator). The 2amp draw was
determined to be the back lighting on the electrical panel switches – check –
all electricity is accounted for. The
sea strainer leak was discovered when Chris was re-wiring the batteries. It was not a show stopper leak so we
purchased a new one in Key West and simply waited for the time to make the
switch. “Make the switch” sounds so
simple and easy but it was hours of removing the old (including a philips head
screw that was missing its head), creating the new platform bracket and hooking
it all together. Then the moment of
truth – is water flowing?! And no ocean
coming in?! Bingo! It’s shiny and new and flowing…and not
leaking. The photos show the
Chris-created mounting (literally from spare scraps around the boat) and the
installed strainer in its tiny spot between hoses and other
mechanicals…shoehorn recommended.
This
Marco Island anchorage is a great one with good holding for the boat,
marvelous resources ashore for us and solid dinghy docks to connect the
two. The rental car was a short walk
away, there is a Winn Dixie supermarket a stone’s throw away (as well as CVS,
Walgreens, restaurants…) and even a laundromat.
I was a bit worried there wouldn’t be a laundromat because the town is
rather swanky; however, I found one nearby and it is lovely. It is in a mini-mall (as are most things in
Florida), tucked in the corner. There
are plenty of clean and new machines and loads of current magazines to while
away the time. It’s Marco Island Laundry
on North Collier if you need one while in the area (http://www.yelp.com/biz/marco-island-laundry-marco-island).