Expectations
and Cruising: October 4 2016
Expectations
are a good way to set goals and strive for new things. However,
cruising tends to take your
expectations and toss them out the window…then…replace them with
something-that-was-almost-but-not-completely-unlike-your-expectations
(Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy). But
I am getting ahead of myself – let me back up a bit.
We
had a great summer with Barefeet in Boston.
The time was full of boat projects and harbor cruises with friends. Chris did many boat projects with a mailing
address and an uncluttered home to return to every night. The replacement of all fuel lines was the
primary project but there were additional projects, too, along with unexpected
things that snuck in around the edges like replacing the fridge and hot water
tank. Time flew by and soon it was time
to head south for our Holiday storage in Brunswick, Georgia…where we will
return in January for the winter cruising season. This should be a quick “delivery” style trip
without much time for smelling the roses.
Ahoy! We tossed the lines Wednesday morning from Charlestown Marina in Boston (Sept
21). It was a calm overnight run from Boston through Buzzard’s Bay to
Port Washington in the Long Island Sound (just before Manhattan). We waited
in Port Washington for a couple of days to let the waves from storm Karl mellow...and...we
did some boat projects; installed the panels to the fridge, changed a main
engine fuel filter and changed the lower unit oil in the dinghy engine (please
be aware I am not thrilled to have all these minute details at the tip of my
tongue - oh well).
Then off we went through Manhattan (Sept 24). Incidentally, NYC was a
hubub because the UN was in session. We
motored right past the UN on Saturday...gobs of helicopters...even by NYC
standards. There was literally a helicopter parking lot with painted
spaces and copters evenly spaced one after another after another…just like any
strip mall parking lot full of mini-vans.
But the bridges of New York City - wow. They are a
wonderful combination of art and industrial heft...stunning every time
we see them.
Out
the other side of Manhattan and we stayed a night in Staten Island then made an
overnight hop down the Jersey shore. It always
feels good to have the wide open ocean off the Jersey Shore in the rear-view
mirror. Dinner was simple (but hot)
cream cheese and chili dip with corn chips…mixed and “cooked” in the microwave
using only one bowl. Offshore travel
dictates efficiency.
Weather
conditions outside on the ocean deteriorated by the time we got to Cape May the
next morning so we headed up the Delaware River for a night in Chesapeake City
tied up at Shafer’s Marina (Sept 26).
The food was good and the people were over the top friendly…it took us
nearly 30 minutes to sit down because everyone wanted to chat about where we traveled
from and where we were going to.
Our
next stop was Annapolis in the Chesapeake Bay (Sept 27). We anchored off of the Naval Academy with our
new anchor set-up…new chain, new bow roller and beefed up roller pin (another
summer project). Everything worked like
a dream! With only one night in town we
buzzed over to the neighborhood Davis’ Pub (http://davispub.com/). It was a clear, warm night and we felt good
arriving in our seventh of eleven states: MA, RI, NY, CT, NJ, DE and MD. We were making good time and clicking off the
miles.
We
pulled up the anchor in Annapolis in the dark hoping to make a full day run all
the way to the mouth of the Potomac in order to get ahead of bad weather that
was heading for Annapolis in the upper Chesapeake…but leaving the lower
Chesapeake sunny and clear (Sept 28).
Drat! We hate going backwards but
we had no choice as a road block in the form of a massive thunderstorm blocked
the Bay with 35+ knots of wind, hail, lightening and thunder. Reluctantly, we turned around and headed back
to Annapolis. The bad weather was coming
and was expected to hang around so we picked up a mooring ball rather than
anchor in the exposed anchorage. But a
bit of reality check shows ten foot waves off of the Jersey Shore…reminding us
to take it one step at a time when we can.
Three
days of 30+ knots of wind and a small craft advisory followed. Several other cruising boats were snug in the
harbor on mooring balls with us - no pain, no pain. We are all looking at
weather...reluctantly signing on for one more night and another…on the mooring
balls because weather forecasts simply refuse to budge.
We
have done small boat projects, read books, watched movies and looked forward to
meal time. We have ventured ashore and we have had hot meals aboard. Homemade cheese enchiladas with refried beans were
a particular favorite when rain and wind was too nasty to venture ashore
(recipe below). It seems that the worst part about the weather has been
the nightly waves churned up by the wind which produce so much boat movement
that we feel like we are on passage and sleep is pretty elusive (although ear
plugs help).
Eventually,
the weather conditions broke in the upper Chesapeake. Off we went for Annapolis departure take-two
(Oct 2). It was a gentle ride down the
Chesapeake with glimpses of sunshine to familiar Jutland Creek at the mouth of
the Potomac. The name Chesapeake Bay
sounds like a bucolic waterway with wildlife and fisherman. It is that but it is also a superhighway for
mega ocean tankers on their way to and from Baltimore and Philadelphia. We give the channel a wide berth so these
guys can steam through the deep, center of the channel. This is a busy waterway.
Throughout
the day we heard lots of chatter on the VHF radio about destination itineraries
and eyes following hurricane Matthew.
Forecasts are 1.5 weeks out but the hurricane track looks to be heading
to mainland USA…completely hugging the shore of the east coast. Gulp.
We need to think hard about this.
But
first we headed to Courtney’s Restaurant (https://www.yelp.com/biz/courtneys-restaurant-and-seafood-ridge). This creek anchorage is absolutely one of our
favorite anchorages on the planet. The
water is still, farmed oyster beds line the shore, the air is a fragrant
combination of pines/floral/fresh and eagles swoop overhead – definitely a
place wrapped in magical serenity.
Creeks
and rivers and ocean offer a seafood bounty around every corner and on every
table. Maryland’s Holy Trinity of
Seafood is oysters, rock fish (striped bass) and blue crab. Menus herald crab pretzels, crab balls,
chees-ey crab dip – you get the idea.
But no one does it better or fresher than waterman Tom and cook Julie
Courtney. We settled into the no-frills
dining room for raw oysters, hushpuppies and rock fish stuffed with crab and
drizzled with a light cheese sauce. As
we paid the bill we got talking with Tom.
He is a lifelong waterman with more experience on the local waters than
can be found in all the books on library shelves or across all internet
blogs. He told us of the boats he has
lost in storms, standing six foot waves into the creek and ropes that had to be
cut with a knife because knots had pulled so tremendously tight that they could
not be undone.
We
had a lot to think about with the impending hurricane looking to be in our
neighborhood. Would we keep driving INTO
a hurricane and hope for a place to tuck in when the time came?! Or would we move to Atlantic Yacht Basin on
the ICW just past Norfolk?! Atlantic
Yacht Basin markets itself as a hurricane-proof spot…which sounds good. Let’s wait one more day to allow the track to
crystalize a bit more.
After
much thought we have made a hurricane plan.
Chris says it best, "We decided to do what a grumpy old waterman in a
Chesapeake bar told us to do... Go 100 miles up a river and get away from the
coast. We will go up the Potomac river 100 miles to Washington DC and
wait this one out. The "hurricane proof" marina (Atlantic Yacht
Basin) just called and said they were not going to honor our reservation and
would turn us away. If we keep going south we will be near the outer banks,
NC, when the storm gets here ... Which is kind of like spending a night in
prison because you are worried the streets might be unsafe. We are
probably being overly worried ... But the consequences of no safe place to be
and 130 mph winds?! It just doesn't sound like we want to be on the wrong
side of that one."
So,
for the second time on this trip we turned around and headed back the way we
came…and then continued on up the length of the Potomac (Oct 3). The serene landscape was periodically broken by radar installations that rivalled the treeline height. We lost some time back-tracking so we eeked
out as much daylight as possible and kept moving until 6.30pm to anchor in
Mattawoman Creek just as the sun was going down (between Quantico and Mt
Vernon). Our decision made – it was a
restful dinner of chicken tamales with rice and beans followed by a quiet
slumber.
We
were DC bound and following our route taken last Spring (Oct 4). Familiarity makes all trips a bit less spooky
and this was no exception. We watched
for logs and islands of sea grass while soaking in the serene landscape. Just after twelve Noon we were tied up snug
in a slip at the Capital Yacht Club with Dock Master Kelvin and Rear Commodore
Phil welcoming us back. Aaahhh. Here we are heading south with expectations
almost-but-not-completely-unlike-our-original-expectations. Mother Nature holds all the cards and we will
wait-and-see what our next move will be.
Cheese
Enchiladas with Red Sauce (salsa roja) by Jeff Smith, Frugal Gourmet